More skin is not in

NEW YORK: If the world needs another sign that Britney Spears' look is yesterday's news, check out New York Fashion Week.

Gone are the skin-centric, tummy-revealing and possibly private-part exposing trends that Spears and friends like Paris Hilton made ubiquitous. Instead, designers are embracing modesty, using sheer fabrics and lingerie looks to subtly hint at sexiness.

It is an extension of the ladylike trends for fall; designers seem to have made the collective decision that a lot of skin is not in.

On Tuesday, Monique Lhuillier presented sophisticated, fluid looks that celebrate a woman's shape without squeezing it. Carmen Marc Valvo showed tasteful swimwear with plenty of coverage, flattering pintucks and low leg openings. Even pantyhose made a comeback over the weekend at the Derek Lam show.

Of course, every rule has an exception. Marc Jacobs bucked the trend on Monday with plenty of glimpses of bras, slips and tap pants. He presented his spring collection to a packed crowd that had been waiting for two hours. (Celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and Sheryl Crow did not wait quite as long - they seemed to know to show up "fashionably late".)

But it looked like he could have used a little more time. Models were wearing what Jacobs called "scrap tops" and "one-half gowns" - clothes that one presumes were left unfinished to make an ironic statement - thus, giving the audience plenty of glimpses of their silk, satin and crepe bras, slips and tap pants.

On their own, individual elements of the outfits, such as a black lace cape or a moire sleeveless trench coat, were very attractive, but wearable clothes were not the point here.

The entire show was staged backward, beginning with his bow, then the finale and then running through the looks, starting with No 56 and ending with No 1, a denim cape and sequined gown. Some of the shoes had heels built sideways into the uppers, while others skimmed so low on the heel they looked too small, bucking every trend along the way.

Half the outfits were a creamy white color, and another 25 percent or so were various shades of gray. The only pops of color came from a few green dresses near the end of the presentation.

Red-carpet princess Lhuillier turned out a series of pretty dresses that are sure to make her starlets happy.

The spring collection, however, strayed from the volume and all the jeweled embellishment that have been her hallmark in recent seasons, instead offering mostly sophisticated, fluid looks.

The last look might have been the best example: A black chiffon gown with a fitted corset bodice and a draped skirt that came together in a bow at the waist. There were plenty of more colorful options, including seafoam-colored chiffon strapless gown with draping all over the top - down below the hips - and then a billowy handkerchief hem and a nude-colored chiffon crisscross draped bodice gown.

These fashion confections - inspired by Laduree macaroons - carried through to some outstanding daytime outfits, including a light yellow metallic tweed suit with a shawl-collar jacket and a slim pencil skirt worn with a cream-colored V-neck halter blouse with ruffles down the front.

But even when you are dealing with such dainty, delicate details, there can be too much of a good thing and one dress - a one-shoulder tulle gown with seemingly endless tiers covered with light green flowers - was just too much of everything.

New York Fashion Week wrapped up on Wednesday after an eight-day preview of the spring-summer looks of 100 or so designers.

Agencies

(China Daily 09/15/2007 page16)