Pillars of the past
Jaipur is a bustling business center with all the trappings of a modern metropolis. But it's flavored with an ancient charm that never fails to surprise. Located 260 kilometers from Delhi, capital of India, and 240 kilometers from Agra, where the Taj Mahal is located, Jaipur is one of the brightest shining golden triangles of tourism in the country.
In late April, I visited this fascinating land as a member of a delegation of Chinese media representatives invited by the Indian government.
We arrived in Jaipur around lunchtime and checked into a hotel south of the old town. Locals say that traveling from southern Jaipur to its north is like traveling through a passage in time that reveals the city's entire history.
Leaving behind the hustle and bustle, we headed to the Amber Fort in the northern mountains. There are three ways to reach the peak: by jeep, on an elephant or by foot.
All six of us squeezed into a small jeep, which growled up the steep slope at full speed. Gripping the rail and listening to the roaring engine, I imagined myself in a battlefield alongside soldiers riding elephants and horses as they charged their foes.
Before I snapped back to reality, a majestic, ancient palace surrounded by desolate mountains came into view.
Located 11 kilometers from Jaipur, Amber Fort has maintained its glory from the days when it was the capital of the ruling Kachhawa clan before Jaipur was made the new capital in 1727.
Built at the end of the 16th century, this fortress features a unique fusion of Hindu and Mughal architecture, and the famous Mirror Palace in its bowels.
The vaulted gate, dome and surrounding walls are bejeweled with colorful glasswork and gemstones. Lighting a candle inside creates 1,000 reflected twinkles, so the rooms resemble a starry-night sky.
The building's architecture is reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, which was also built in 1631 during the rule of the Mughal Empire (1526-1707). Like the Taj Mahal, Amber Fort's yard also has a beautiful lake, which is surrounded by protective walls.
The fortress is divided in four sections, which could be reached either by climbing the imposing stairway or riding an elephant along the broad aisle.
A moat encircling the fort was intended to keep out unwanted guests. However, the Mughal Empire was finally brought down by civil wars and colonization.
The old Jaipur was built in the 1820s to connect with outside world.
Three centuries ago, a maharaja named Raja Sawai Jai Singh built the City Palace Complex in the heart of his newly founded Japiur. Today, it is one of the most imposing and magnificent examples of the art and architecture of India.
The most distinctive features of the City Palace are its regular and quadrate configurations, which are meant to represent balance and dignity.
The City Palace is the heart of the old town. Most of the former royal residence has been preserved as a museum and is filled with displays of weaponry, jewelry and clothing dating back as far as the 15th century.
The main attractions, however, are the world's two largest sterling silver vessels. They were made for Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II to carry water from the River Ganga to drink during his voyage to England in 1902. Each weighs more than 300 kilograms and is about two meters tall.
The best-known landmark of Jaipur is Hawa Mahal, or Palace of Winds, built by the King Sawai Pratap Singh. The five-story building showcases Rajput architecture and artistry at its best. Its 953 pink sandstone windows were arranged like a giant honeycomb.
The structure was intended as a place for royal ladies to observe the colorful bazaars and processions across the city while remaining hidden from those outside. The fantastic views seen from the latticed windows are incredible to behold.
When we drove into the new city through the southern gate of old Jaipur, we found ourselves in a conspicuously modern India.
The new city was built to the south of the old town in the 1980s to protect the cultural heritage preserved there. Here, five-star hotels, universities, museums and cinemas are sheltered by the forest.
When the first rays of sunlight reach Jaipur, the city resembles a peacock fanning its colorful tail feathers. The ancient structures atop the northern mountains become the bird's head, while the ancient town forms its body and the new city seems to be the span of its tail.
And Jaipur, the Pink Diamond of India, should be as proud as one of these reputedly prideful birds, because it would soon be capturing more and more world attention with its grandeur.
(China Daily 07/05/2007 page19)
