Dragon the chain
SHANGHAI: As one of only a handful of Chinese fashion designers working in Europe, Wang Wei is often asked why his works don't contain Chinese elements.
Instead, Wang's collection seems marked by the fashion signatures of London and modern deconstruction.
However, when Wang faces inquiries about the cultural character of his garments, he answers the question with a question.
"But what is the personality for China's fashion? Does it just mean bright reds and dragon-shaped symbols?"
The 35-year-old fashion designer is the first Chinese in the field to show at London Fashion Week's "sideline show", which is intended to lure young talents.
"I don't want to judge other Chinese fashion designers, but I do believe that redness and embroidered dragons aren't the only signature characteristics of Chinese fashion," he said.
The fashion word Wang hates the most is "tangzhuang" (a traditional Chinese garment), and he believes that people now wear these at parties to show their "ethical taste".
"Tangzhuang is everywhere nowadays. That's why we leave Westerners with an image of China as always draped in dragon embroidery," he said.
"I think the oriental spirit does not mean designing details on the surface, but
Wang Wei (pictured far left) holds a cross-over show with the auto brand Roewe in Shanghai where he presents his 2007 spring/summer collection and some concept designs for autos. File photos |
Wang said that because his age and experience haven't yet been sufficient to give him a deep understanding of Chinese culture, he is not yet ready to express his national spirit.
"When I am 40 or 50, I will be more confident about expressing the oriental spirit of China," he said.
For now, Wang is focusing on his goals of studying in Europe and getting Westerners to accept his work.
"It is necessary to be accepted in Europe first, and then I can present my own concept," he said.
"It's just like how we should speak English everywhere, because the English-speaking countries are stronger than us. The same goes for fashion; Europe is definitely the center stage."
The designer who rarely accepts media interviews spoke willingly with several local media after his show with Roewe, a brand of SAIC Motor in the Auto Shanghai 2007.
In addition to Roewe, Wang used to hold several cross-over shows with companies such as Jonnie Walker. That might be why the media dubbed him "the most successfully commercialized Chinese fashion designer of the moment". Wang, however, is a little agitated by this title.
"If I am just commercialized, I can't be allowed into the young artists' show of London Fashion Week or the Paris Fashion Week," he said.
"It is all about pure art. But what I should state clearly is that most Chinese artists are too conservative.
"Why must artists be high-hearted like hundreds of years ago?
"Why must artists behave like they have never tasted food?
"Even an artist should present himself and his works through modern commercial models," he added.
Wang said he also plans to design more cross-over products with Roewe, if possible.
"It won't be auto or garment, but rather, a third type of product that combines the spirits of both cars and fashion," he said.
Wang was a painting major at university, and many of his classmates criticized him when he changed his major to design.
"I asked my heart, and I do believe I am an artist," he said. "I showed my works through commercial mediums, but my heart is full of pure art."
Wang believes China's fashion industry today lacks fertile land for the cultivation of designers.
"Most art schools aim to cultivate artists who are highly skilled but not creative," he said.
He said that was the reason he headed for Europe once his business in China developed.
After a several-year stint working as a design director of Layefe, a brand founded by artist Chen Yifei, Wang flew to London. In London, he developed his own brand, Wangwei Gallery, and today, a Wangwei Gallery dress sells for about GBP800 ($1,600).
"I hope to have a breakthrough in my design, and I hope to work in a wider space, where the environment can be more competitive," he said.
Wang's plan is to develop his business in Europe first and then establish a high-end international brand with the Chinese spirit at its core.
After becoming an international fashion designer, Wang said he would like to return to China.
"My biggest market is certainly in my country, but it needs time," he said. "I will be back in 10 or 20 years, at a time when the real Chinese trends will sweep around the world."
(China Daily 04/27/2007 page19)
