A taste of Asia in coastal Canada
Fusion is the operative word in restaurant-rich Vancouver.
"Everybody says Vancouver is a great eating city," Georgia Straight restaurant critic Stephen Wong tells me over lunch. Case in point: the garlic stir-fried pea shoots and lamb noodle soup at Legendary Noodle (4191 Main St.; 879-8758), which totals $13, including tip.
Wong notes that our soup is a favorite of David Hawksworth, an innovative chef at West Restaurant (2881 Granville St.; 738-8938; www.west restaurant.com).
West's use of locally sourced ingredients exemplifies a Vancouver dining trend. "One restaurant that truly uses ingredients from this bioregion is Raincity Grill (1193 Denman St.; 685-7337; www.raincitygrill.com)."
Turning to Vancouver's beloved Japanese food, Wong tackles a misconception about widely celebrated Tojo's (1133 W. Broadway; 872-8050; www.tojos.com): "Everybody talks about chef Tojo's sushi, but I think his cooked food is even better."
For wallet-friendly sushi, Wong suggests Sakae (745 Thurlow St.; 669-0067), popular with local Japanese, and Toshi (181 E. 16th Ave.; 874-5173), where the perpetual line out the door speaks for itself.
Wong's kudos go to the "great hand-rolled noodles" at Sha Lin Noodle House (548 W. Broadway; 873-1816). Another pick? "Kintaro (788 Denman St.; 682-7568) is serious about ramen."
At Kwong Chow (3163 Main St.; 876-8520), "they have two menus, one with noodles and another with unusual stuff like ostrich done eight different ways and rab bit hot pot."
No visit to "Hongcouver" is complete without dim sum. For "Hong Kong-style innovative" dishes, head to Sun Sui Wah (3888 Main St.; 866-872-8822; www.sun suiwah.com), where giant fish tanks provide diversion between food trolleys.
Leaving East Asia behind, Wong plugs the dosa at Nooru Mahal (4354 Fraser St.; 873-9263; www.noorumahal.com). Another South India pick: Chutney Villa (147 E. Broadway; 872-2228), with "amazing" homemade condiments. For North Indian cuisine it's Ashiana Tandoori (1440 Kingsway; 874-5060; www.ashianatandoori.com).
Wong throws one final hat into the ring. "There are gems on Commercial Drive. At Zanzibar Cafe (1851 Commercial Dr.; 215-2008), you get a lamb tagine with apricots for $6. It is a great unsung Vancouver restaurant."
(China Daily 04/26/2007 page19)
