Old is gold
NEW YORK: There is a bit of a vintage vibe at New York Fashion Week, with many designers mining bygone eras as inspiration for their new fall collections. The outfits are distinctly feminine, although there are many menswear touches. The brown, moss and gray backdrop is made richer with plum, berry and blue.
A model presents a creation from Marc Jacobs fall collection show during New York Fashion Week. REUTERS |
More than any other American designer, Marc Jacobs is the bellwether, and he treated his beyond-capacity crowd Monday night to long, lean clothes that were devoid of gimmicks but still had sparkle, thanks to several sequined pieces.
Models, including Shalom Harlow making a rare appearance on the runway, wore 1920s-inspired hats to complement pleated shirtdresses that went below the knee and menswear-style vests and narrow-leg though not "skinny" pants. There was more than one jumpsuit, too, and while jumpsuits normally either look dated or are incredibly difficult to pull off, Jacobs' navy one covered with subtle embroidered bows actually worked.
Eveningwear was either tailored tuxedos, or dropped-waist or draped dresses; a teal strapless velvet gown with an oversized bow at the bustline was his finale piece.
Jacobs did tap into some already-emerging trends, including using teal and berry against an overall palette of gray, navy, beige and winter white, as well as mixing textures,
A model wears a creation from the Bill Blass 2007 fall collection during New York Fashion Week on Tuesday. REUTERS |
Designers "borrow" ideas from each other all the time, but few acknowledge it. Michael Vollbracht, though, is an honest guy and he credited creations by the late Bill Blass, Roy Halston and Norman Norell as the foundations of his new collection.
He explained why in a note provided to the audience: "Mr. Norell because I fell in love with his sequined mermaids years and years ago when I was a very young designer. Halston ... because his simple philosophy looks so good in this era of over-designing. And of course Blass because it is my job to knock him off."
But after three years as the creative force at Blass, Vollbracht also showed he is confident enough to tweak the look of those he admired, keeping the overall look modern, something he had been criticized for not doing a few seasons ago.
A short and sassy blue jersey swing dress and a cozy white cashmere one could be worn by a 20-year-old or a 50-year-old, especially with the dark opaque tights that have been all over runways. Coats also had a light touch, though surely a forest-green mink coat, with the texture of corduroy, would keep its wearer warm.
The Blass label increasingly is a red-carpet player, too, and there were several choices for Hollywood types. The more daring star might go for a gown with a black leather bodice and floating black chiffon bottom, while a black sequin halter gown with a mermaid hem, one of those Norell touches, would be a safer choice. A fluid champagne-colored silk jersey gown with a plunging V front and back, with pearls embroidered at the waistband, would be the best choice.
Designers Milla Jovovich and Carmen Hawk took over a section of the already vintage-inspired Gramercy Park Hotel and turned it into a treasure trove of grandma's best clothes from when she was still a single girl.
This collection could elevate the brand thanks to a series of sweet-sexy outfits.
The best ones included a slim black skirt suit with patent leather accents, worn with hot-pink stilettos, and a black viscose dress with rosettes and rose-color trim.
Agencies
(China Daily 02/09/2007 page19)
