Viva la difference in taste and time
GUANGZHOU: Fate is a funny thing. When chef Hamont Madani was working in high-end hotel in Paris six months ago, little did he know his career would take him halfway around the world to one Guangzhou's most iconic landmarks.
"I worked for five years at the River Terrace Hotel in Paris, when I was offered the job here," says Madani, executive chef at the White Swan Hotel.
French chef Hamont Madani insists upon his own tastes while working in the White Swan Hotel of Guangzhou,Guangdong Province. Steven Chen |
"It was a chance to travel and see a new country, so I was happy to have the opportunity."
As executive sous chef (Western) at one of Guangzhou's most famous hotels and arguably China's first five-star establishment when it opened in 1983, Madani is responsible for the Western food served at the hotel's numerous outlets, as well as through its room service.
His responsibilities include overseeing the overall quality of each item on the menu and setting the style and direction of future dishes.
Calling himself a "traditional chef", Madani sticks to a "pure style" not mixing or confusing his food with other cuisines. He believes French dishes are well established over many decades and have a clear taste.
"Experiencing authentic cuisine is the best way to enjoy food," said Madani. For that reason, he will not change his food to suit local tastes.
This won't appeal to some customers, but the chef thinks dining means more than eating. It is also an education.
"Diners should come with an open mind," said he. "And after a while, they might find they like it."
Such experiences will help one's palate to develop, he believes. Besides, "authentic flavors stay in the mind". A diner is more likely to remember and return for the (authentic) food he has eaten than those not authentic.
Keeping to this particular mantra takes time and effort, all part of the long work hours for the past eight months.
To cope with homesickness, Madani turns to his lifelines the telephone and the Internet, especially when he craves talking in his native language.
His advice for would-be-chefs thinking of coming to China is "try and understand the culture".
"It was very difficult for me at first. China and France are two great cultures, but they are so different," he said.
"The language, the food, the thinking it was all strange to me when I first came."
French people start the day late, they eat a light breakfast and a heavier lunch and late dinner around 8 or 9 pm. But Chinese emphasize breakfast. And the dinner here is very early, 5 or 6 pm. This has not been easy for Madani to get used to.
"My advice to others is to keep open to new things. Be patient and try to understand the culture," he said.
"If you respect people, they will respect you back. I find Chinese people are very hospitable, very helpful to me. I think it is because of my attitude. I'm very respectful."
(China Daily 01/23/2007 page19)
