NEW YORK: Many women started embracing dresses as something more than a
novelty only last season, so their lust for the silhouettes is far from
satiated. They love the ease of slipping into a frock and the fact that they can
do so while working other trends of the season, such as futurism, romance or
metallics.
Scores of designers have expanded their offerings to include a wealth of day
looks that should be adaptable to even the most staid work environments. Women's
Wear Daily surveyed the fashion directors of major stores to learn what dresses
they'll be pushing and pulling for as spring blossoms on the selling floor.
"Almost every collection was, maybe, 65 percent dresses," says Nordstrom's
vice president of women's designer apparel Jennifer Wheeler.
"It's really become the new uniform for spring-summer,"
agrees Roopal Patel, Bergdorf Goodman's fashion director. "Whether it's about
volume, patch pockets, topstitch or the chiffon overlay and trompe l'oeil
effects that we saw at Chanel, every woman has a choice to suit her body."
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A model displays a creation of Drosofila during Fashion Rio Show in Rio
de Janeiro this week. REUTERS |
Dresses have always been in the mix, but not at this level of ubiquity. Ken
Downing, Neiman Marcus' senior vice president and fashion director, points out
that until very recently, sportswear and separates had long dominated
collections.
"The idea of a dress really felt new to our customer last season," says
Downing, who names Oscar de la Renta's and Stella McCartney's dresses, paired
with a cropped jacket and flat shoes, as standouts of the season. "She likes
things that are very pretty and put together. So when we started bringing
dresses into the store, she was excited."
Likewise at Macy's, which predicts that Anna Sui, Twinkle by Wenlan and
Betsey Johnson dresses will be big for spring.
"It's about the pleasure of being a woman," says Nicole Fischelis, vice
president and fashion director of Macy's East. She notes that, while Macy's has
done well with fall dresses across the bridge, better and contemporary
categories, different silhouettes suit the various markets.
Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue vice president and women's fashion director,
predicts chic day dresses from Valentino and Oscar de la Renta will be his
store's No 1 spring item. "It's one-shot dressing that just hasn't been in the
everyday woman's daytime wardrobe. And we have to remember, we're dressing
people for work, for the most part."
But office-appropriate attire exists on an ever-changing spectrum, and
conventional lines continue to blur.
Henri Bendel vice president and fashion director Ann Watson, whose buy
included pieces from Alexia Admor, adam plus eve and Jovovich-Hawk, sees her
customer as building a wardrobe of dresses.
"It's almost like an accessory," she notes. "A girl can quickly change her
look for the season by layering it over leggings or a racer-back tank. It can
take you from spring to fall quite easily."
New York Times Syndicate
(China Daily 01/19/2007 page19)