Modern men warm to a spirit of cool
MILAN: The latest fashion dilemma has to do with weather, as designers offer new ways to fight the elements for their fall-winter 2007-2008 menswear collections currently showing on the Milan catwalk.
Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2007/08 men’s collection was launched at Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday. REUTERS |
The unseasonable weather could just be a fluke, but designers aren't taking any chances and are focusing on indoor looks.
At Dolce and Gabbana, which opened the five-day preview showings on Sunday, models sauntered down the runway in shimmering silver snowsuits, but underneath they wore a classic black suit, white shirt and thin tie.
The new Dolce and Gabbana suit has a close fit, with thin-lapeled jacket and tapered trousers. Whether with a two- or four-buttoned jacket, the suit exudes simple elegance.
Next season the daring duo fights the elements with a new take on fashion for them the English school boy. The Dolce lad wears tailored jeans, classic sweaters and posh cashmere-wool overcoats. Footwear comes in hip patent leather lace-ups with an exaggeratedly pointed toe. Hefty winter boots are absent from the collection.
Donatella Versace for both men and women has made a slow but persistent move from sexy to sophisticated style. Her latest collection, presented on Sunday, takes a giant step in this direction, with the accent on sobriety.
"It's more about spirit than muscle," said Donatella Versace before the much-applauded show in the brand new Versace venue in downtown Milan.
By the designer's own admission, her muse for the austere collection defined by slim black suits worn with pristine clerical-collared white shirts was Pope Benedict XVI's private secretary, Monsignor Georg Ganswein.
The handsome priest has become quite a heartthrob in the Eternal City, and much to the prelate's displeasure, his disarming good looks have been the brunt of Italian television comedy.
 John Richmond’s Fall/Winter 2007/08 men’s collection also was shown off at the Milan show. REUTERS |
At Versace the accent was also on indoors, with outerwear limited to belted leather jackets and elegant overcoats. Eveningwear was top of the line, featuring not only veldt tuxedo jackets, but yesteryear coat and tails. Oversized bow ties completed the look.
There was little of the usual eccentricity in the Gianfranco Ferre collection presented on Monday. Far from the bold, brash styles of past seasons, the collection was chock full of cozy cashmere sweaters, sporty blazers and casual slacks. Far from winter, the look and the colors were perfect for an autumn weekend in the countryside.
Roberto Cavalli finds it hard to resist overkill, but this season he, too, toned down his fashion passion. Built on the mod cigarette pant in a range of fabrics from velvet to snakeskin, the collection presented on Monday included heavy textured sweaters and belted jackets all in uncharacteristic black and gray. The only extravagance came at night in the ruffled evening shirts with a bird painted on the back, and a spattering of sequins on shirts and sweaters.
Giorgio Armani showed his second line Emporio collection. The menswear maestro, never afraid to dare the elements, ended his show with a glittering parade of snowboarders in shiny silver snowsuits with matching silver boards.
But overall the show had the same downplayed feel which has characterized the first days of the preview collections.
Mostly black, the show featured suits with comfortable jacket and tapered trouser, sweaters with elbow padding, and quilted sport jackets.
Although the collection was designed for cold weather, the techno fabrics are thermo-regulated, offering a wide temperature range, and an extra light look.
Agencies
(China Daily 01/19/2007 page19)
