Xu, Wang and Yang family names predominate in this constricted street. I entered one old dwelling where a Mr Yang was the 27th generation to live in the house. A colour TV and a few other modern conveniences could be seen but it wasn’t difficult to imagine Doushan Street when it was a gregarious place for Huīzhōu businessmen.

An even better example of Huīzhōu Culture is seen at Hongcun, another village located in the foothills of Huangshan Mountain. Unlike any other place in China I have ever seen, Hongcun is described as “a unique, cow-shaped ancient village”. During the Song Dynasty (960 – 1279) the ingenious villagers of Hongcun constructed a complex water system to supply clean water for household use, the irrigation of their fields and fire prevention.

While it’s not readily apparent, the whole village spread over 30 acres is like a water buffalo lying on its side surrounded by green hills and blue water. Dwelling houses form the body, nearby Leigang Hill is the head while two tall trees are the horns. South Lake just beyond the cluster of houses is the ‘stomach’ while the complex waterways spread out like ‘intestines’.

Narrow alleys crisscross the village. I trod well worn stones of many of these while passing some of the 140 buildings that linger from the 14th to 19th centuries. The distinct architecture typical of Huīzhōu Culture was highly visible. On the outside, homes have white washed walls and black tile roofs, many with horse head gables and decorative eaves. On the inside they are furnished with intricately carved wood panels and interior courtyards.

While there are several attention-getters like the noted circa 1855 Chengzhi Hall detailed with highly structured wood, brick and stone carvings and praised as the “royal palace outside of the Forbidden City” most of the old homes are still private residences.

Many owners have opted to become entrepreneurs. I saw homes where artisans working at their doorsteps were carving bamboo and horn into jewellery and ornaments. Elsewhere, several home shops stocked loose and packaged green and black tea. Grown on the fertile slopes of Huangshan Mountain, tea has been an important cottage industry for generations.

Other owners were carving slabs of stone which would be used to hold the ink for writing, calligraphy or delicate ink paintings. Still other people sold guidebooks and postcards or snacks and cold drinks to the continuous throngs of hungry and thirsty visitors.

With refreshment in hand, I paused before Moon Pond in the centre of the village. Semi circled by white washed homes, this small body of water got the name from its crescent design. Clean water flowed into the pond from the mountain following a lengthy manmade channel.

World Heritage listed Hongcun has been widely praised over the centuries as “a village in Chinese paintings”. This is still true to the very time because on fair weather days a long row of artisans take up positions under trees lining the bank of the bow shaped South Lake. With brushes in hand I watched them create likenesses of the quaint stone bridge that spans the idyllic lake and the historic houses of Hongcun, a truly special place that has been officially gazetted as “One of the Ten Most Charming Towns in China”.

By Thomas E. King 2010