Climate change makes English winemakers see red

(Agencies)
Updated: 2009-11-10 10:15

"In the sparkling, we don't need the complex flavors you'd expect in a red," White said.

This is why the Champagne region in France, which has a similarly cool climate to southern England, can make what are seen as the finest sparkling wines. The regions also have the same chalky soil, which explains the small chips of white stone in the soil at Denbies estate.

These similarities have helped English sparkling wines to beat their Champagne rivals in occasional blind tastings.

However, the UK is far north of the narrow bands in temperate latitudes where red grapes have traditionally grown.

Citing research from the University of Burgundy, Greenpeace said in a report in August the best latitudes for winemaking in the northern hemisphere may move 1,000 km (620 miles) north by the end of this century if nothing is done to stop global warming.

The report prompted 50 famous French chefs and sommeliers to write an open letter to President Nicolas Sarkozy urging action as fine wines, "jewels of French culture," were in danger.

MEDIEVAL WARM PERIOD

English winemakers see the trend partly as the pendulum swinging back in their favor.

Britain experienced a "Medieval warm period" in the centuries around 1000 A.D., said Philip Brohan, climate scientist at the UK's national weather service, the Met Office.

This allowed winemaking, introduced to Britain by the Romans, to thrive under the Normans before declining, said Professor Richard Selley, author of "The Winelands of Britain."

Historians say an increase in trade with France and King Henry VIII's 16th-century dissolution of the monasteries -- which operated many vineyards -- were also likely factors.

Brohan said the current warming cycle is more severe than the medieval one, and scientists stress carbon dioxide emissions are behind the man-made climate change of the present day. Nonetheless, UK vineyards still struggle to ripen grape varieties which produce the most popular red wines.

Pinot Noir produce the fine Burgundy reds but it is only every few years those grown in English vineyards ripen sufficiently to allow the production of a single variety wine.

Most years in the past decade or so that UK growers have been making reds, they have blended Pinot Noir with other grapes such as Dornfelder, a Germanic variety which ripens more easily but which is not considered as flavorsome.

So far, producers have not managed to master the varieties behind the famous full-bodied wines of Bordeaux, such as Merlot, Carbernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, although some have tried to grow these under plastic sheeting.

This has yielded reds that are generally lighter in color and taste, and less alcoholic than wines from warmer climates.

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