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Travel postcard: 48 hours in Baghdad, Iraq
(Agencies)
Updated: 2009-09-21 09:45
BAGHDAD - Home to what many call the Cradle of Civilization, and whose capital was later immortalized for its splendor and sensuality in tales of the "Arabian Nights," Iraq has millennia of rich history to offer tourists. But while violence is down to lows not seen since the U.S.-led invasion in 2003, insurgents are still capable of launching attacks, making Iraq a highly dangerous destination for all but the most adventurous of tourists. In March, Iraq actually received its first group of Western tourists since the fall of Saddam Hussein, but in August, attacks across the country and in Baghdad killed some 393 people in one of the bloodiest months of the year. If the violence dies down and security improves, tourists with a keen interest in the Middle East would find Mesopotamia, the old Greek name meaning the "Land of the two Rivers" for what is now Iraq, a fascinating place to visit. Below, a Reuters correspondent with local knowledge helps you make the most of your stay. If you don't speak Arabic, it would be ideal to travel with an English-speaking Iraqi driver who has local knowledge of the security situation. Women should dress conservatively generally, and on some occasions, especially when visiting religious sites, will need to wear a headscarf. FRIDAY Noon - Once the capital of a medieval caliphate, Baghdad has been home to many notable Arab poets and novelists. Pay them homage by visiting the book market, open every Friday, on al-Mutanabi Street, named after a renowned 10th century poet. The Ottoman-era street was once the center of Baghdad's rich intellectual life. Hunt for literary treasures in the maze of bookstores. 2 p.m. - Take a break from book shopping to drink syrupy sweet Iraqi tea and smoke a fruity waterpipe, or "narguileh," at Gahwet Al-Shabandar, a haven for Iraq's intellectuals. 5 p.m. - For some colonial history, head to the Bab al-Shorji district near the Armenian cemetery where the "Queen of Baghdad," Gertrude Bell, is buried. Appointed as Oriental Secretary, the British traveler, writer and linguist was credited with drawing the boundaries of modern Iraq after the Ottoman Empire's fall at the end of World War One. She died in 1926. 7 p.m. - Back in the capital, head to any one of many restaurants in the central upscale Karrada district in Baghdad for a dinner of quzi, a traditional Iraqi dish of stuffed roast lamb and rice. 9 p.m. - Visit The Bridge of the Imams, which connects the Adhamiya and Khadhimiya neighborhoods of Baghdad, named for the medieval Sunni and Shi'ite holy men whose landmark shrines lie on opposite sides of the Tigris. Visit the Khadhimiya shrine and the Abu Hanifa mosque in Adhamiya, hugely symbolic religious sites in Baghdad. The bridge reopened with great fanfare in late 2008 after rumors of a suicide bombing in 2005 caused thousands of Shi'ites crossing the bridge for a pilgrimage to panic, triggering a stamped that killed 1,000 people. |
