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Wei Zhuang Restaurant
By Rueben Marley (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-08-28 09:15
 A trip to Hangzhou's legendary West Lake is often deemed mandatory for all visitors, but something worth remembering is that not all visitors to the area are tourists. There's a lot of business happening in the city that was once the country's capital during the Southern Song Dynasty, and finding a suitable place to hold a lunch meeting or discussing business over dinner can be a little daunting amidst the glittering lights of shops, restaurants, and clubs beckoning the passersby... Here's where the Zhi Wei Guan Restaurant provides a sanctuary for those who desire the aesthetic appeal of being nestled into a particularly comfortable corner of West Lake, but who also need a degree of decorum to keep things from getting noisy and distracting. The best part: unlike some of the other world-class establishments that offer a tasteful and memorable experience, there is also no need to feel like you (or your guests) are on display, as a variety of private dining rooms will put you in direct control of the atmosphere... and keep you out of the limelight. I arrived on a typically warm August day, and found the overall appearance of the building unimposing and simple in its design. No loud colours... no gaudy lights and signage to overwhelm the senses... lots of trees producing a vibrant green backdrop. At the door, a girl donning the ubiquitous qipao greeted us, and we were quickly shown to our room. My first feeling when I walked into the restaurant was that this place was busy. Not busy in a chaotic way, but busy in the sense that everyone was doing something to ensure smooth production. I followed our guide down the clean, well-lit area and realised that Zhi Wei Guan is not trying to impress guests with showy opulence, but rather that this was a place to get things done on a Saturday afternoon in one of the most famous tourist cities in China. Executive Chef Lin joined us for lunch, and we took our seats in a comfortable 4-seat room with a picturesque view of the courtyard outside. Our tables were properly appointed with white linens, and there was an immediate feeling of comfort as I decided that nobody would be casting sideward glances to see if I was lifting my pinky at the appropriate time. I've spent about seven years as a Chef myself, so I was never really able to detach myself from the practical side of the dining experience... having the Chef of the restaurant in front of me was a real treat, because ordering food was entirely his call. I was eager to see what he wanted to put in front of us. We ordered a few bottles of SiWo Beer, since I am not a fan of losing wine's subtler nuances on Chinese cuisine. Beer is best with it's light taste, and it doubles as a palate cleanser with its effervescence. Hangzhou Jiang Ya (Hangzhou Roasted Duck) was the first dish to show up. It glistened in the ambient light, with the characteristic dark red-brown sauce I've come to love. I anticipated a sweeter initial taste, but was pleasantly surprised to see that the first bite was a tad saltier... and juicier... than I expected. This was a plump little duck, not at all like the undernourished specimens you'll find in most local shops. Chef Lin gazed at the duck with a scornful look and plainly stated that it wasn't exactly how we likes to see it. This is why dining with the Chef is a special treat... while most people would have been happy to give the duck a thumbs-up for simply being delicious, the Chef is insisting on uniformity and perfection. Almost immediately after the duck, we were given a dish of Hao Cai (Rice-paper Wrapped Spinach) to sample. This is Chef Lin's personal favourite, and I could see why. Sheer simplicity surrounds this dish, a row of neatly-bundled little bites of sauteed spinach wrapped in soft, slightly chewy white rice "paper"... surrounded by a drizzle of house-produced spicy chili oil combined with a roasted peanut emulsion... and finished with a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Ingredients you can count on both hands, perfectly balanced to bring out the flavours. Xiao Huang Yu (Small Yellow Croaker) was a nice dish to look at... not too terribly noteworthy, except that it was garnished with a delicate nest of dried ginger strands, and fermented black beans. Normally I find the tart and pungent taste of the beans to be a difficult match for most dishes, but it worked well with the Croaker's particularly fishy flavour. A little salty overall, but not overwhelming. A large dish appeared... the impressive XiHu Cu Yu (West Lake Vinegar Fish) took up a prominent space in the center of the table, and instantly stole my attention as wisps of steam carried the unmistakable scent of garlic, ginger, and soy straight to me. Presented in traditional Chinese style, the entire fish was served whole with artful cuts in the flesh to create a "flying" appearance. I liked the contrast of dark sauce and golden-fried skin with the pale white colour of the meat... initially not as sharp-tasting as one would expect, and the Chef explained that he favours a gentler bite from the vinegar than one might encounter at most other establishments. I felt that the flavours were all really quite focused. Lotus Root with Shrimp and Lotus seeds was perhaps the best dish of the meal for me, because of the fact that I was convinced it would be bland and lifeless when it first appeared, but turned out to have a nice concentration of flavour that lingered on the palate with assertiveness. Neither heavy nor dominating, the crisp rounds of lotus root were a nice foil to the tender shrimp. I was especially happy to experience the delicate crunch of the lotus root seeds, since they were something new for me... and as it turns out, I am lucky to get them since they will be out of season soon. This is another dish that Chef Lin recommends to guests. As we neared the home stretch of this lavish meal, the Zhi Wei Guan signature Qi Gai Ji (Beggar's Chicken) was carried into the room by some attendants, and I was offered a wooden Mallet, so that I could strike the hardened shell of this classic Chinese dish... three taps are supposed to bring the wielder fortune, but I already knew that my luckiest fortune was right in front of me as the servers pulled layers of Lotus leaf-wrapper and ash away from a whole braised chicken, and it's perfumy aroma filled the room as steam billowed from the dish. Chef Lin explained that there is nearly an exact science to determining the best process for producing this dish successfully... and consistently... and it's a well-guarded secret of any restaurant that enjoys a reputation for flawlessly making this infamous dish. I did my best to identify and single out the medley of spices and aromatics used, but it would be an unconfirmed guess at best... so I leave it to the diner to enjoy the pleasure of savouring this dish for him/herself... this is a dish that Chef Lin takes great pride in. Feeling as though I couldn't go much further, another dish was presented. This time, it was unremarkable in its simplicity, but at the same time quite a pleasing composition on the plate. Ying Shui Yu (Fried Cod with Sweet Sauce) looked a lot like a variation of Fish-n-Chips, but the similarities stopped after an initial glance. A sweet and slightly tangy brilliantly-coloured red sauce provides the right amount of acid to cut the crisp fried batter surrounding tender white fish inside. My only regret was that I was already nearing my comfort zone with all of the food that we had sampled, and this dish would be a great opener or appetiser on a different occasion. After talking and relaxing over the previous courses for about three hours, it was time to bring this grand tour of classic Chinese delights to an end. A duo of desserts were brought out, and lunch was capped off by Nice Soft Lady (Rice-gluten Dumpling with Fresh Mango and Whipped Cream) and Fried Puff Pastry "Lotu" Shell with Fresh Summer Green Bean Puree... a cup of coffee would probably have rounded these items off nicely, but at this point there was no desire to put any more food on the table. What can I say, that should probably be left to be discovered by the Zhi Wei Guan's next guest? Special thanks go out to Simon Xin Pan, Lucy Fu, and of course Chef Lin for a memorable afternoon that showed me how a visitor to the historic West Lake can still enjoy the modern version of some traditional classics in a truly unspoiled surrounding. Location: No.10-12 Yang Gong Ti, West Lake |
