(That's beijing)
Updated: 2007-04-11 11:23

One of Lido's more visually striking cafes, Sonne offers its patrons an eclectic menu and a bustling atmosphere. Although water pipes and electric cables are exposed, giving the space an unfinished look, the tall wood tables and matching bar stools help make it work. Add to that an avant-garde painting of a busy cafe, strategic lighting and displays of choice wines, and suddenly you find yourself wanting soups, salads, and sandwiches.

Sonne gave some Western classics unexpected Asian twists, such as the lemongrass tomato soup (RMB 22). Heavy with cream, it was wise to balance it out with tangy tomatoes and the wonderfully refreshing aroma of lemongrass. With a few splashes of Tabasco, it's what a Thai-style cream soup would probably taste like. It's best followed by Mexican chicken wraps (RMB 48) made with shredded bits of tender chicken breast covered in one of the sweetest, freshest tomato salsas we've had in a while.

But Sonne is not without its flaws. The New York-style hot dog (RMB 40) was neither New York-style nor hot and might best be passed over in favor of something from their breakfast menu (RMB 30-50). Same goes for the Sonne garden salad (RMB 38): a mountain of greens topped by a couple of blocks of what just passes muster as feta, and Sonne could not avoid using iceberg lettuce as filler.

Knowing how hard it is to find affordable Western desserts in Beijing, we were relieved to find the bakery counter's selection of pies (RMB 34-39). Available for take-out, you can enjoy them at home, away from Sonne's American pop songs - another unfortunate blunder. But the decadent sweetness of the pies makes for a favorable last impression.

Food: 3/5
Service: 3.5/5
Decor: 3/5
Price: Cheap-moderate

Address: 5A Hairun International Apartments, 2A Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District
Tel: 010-5135 7329