(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-02-02 09:59

Dining out in this city can be an expensive affair. Although eating in the many simple eateries around Shanghai is easy on the wallet, these places can be lacking in ambiance.

It cannot be stressed enough that food lovers around the city are crying out in unison for more affordable mid-range fare. Thankfully, these pleas haven't fallen on deaf ears.

Enter Maneo. Created by the same group behind Malone's, M-Box and Pier One, the Tongren Road restaurant under Mint nightclub looks set to deliver modern, more reasonably-priced fare in a convenient location.

"We're going for the mid-range price point," said Adam Ashe, executive chef at Mimosa in Pier One. The Sydney native was instrumental in the launch of the new front on the group's assault on the culinary scene, stepping in to set up the kitchen and design of the first menu. "What we have is a modern bistro. (The food) is going to be simple sort of stuff, but with a few twists and turns."

Ashe's role with the sister restaurant was always meant to be temporary, and taking over the reins is Brad Turley, formerly of New Heights and 239 fame. The American joined after an unfortunate set of circumstances resulted in the closure of the latter. According to Ashe, Turley's inclusion marks the start of an exciting era for the group as it now enjoys a talented culinary team in its employ.

Coupled with the sublime skills of Mimosa's Culinary Director Stefan Stiller, the trio make a formidable kitchen force. In addition, the group is bolstered by a young German couple - one a sous chef, the other working in pastry.

A case of too many cooks perhaps? Not according to Ashe. "Here we have three different perspectives. It's good for ideas, because we can work as a team. Not too many places in town have that luxury."

California-native Turley will be phasing in his own menu at Maneo from next week. It helps that he already has a rapport with some staff in the kitchen; at the same time he has been learning to work with what he has got and gauge the capabilities of the rest.

"The current menu is a bit more Old World," said the San Franciscan. "I'm going to be bringing in heavier winter stuff, like more stews."

It appears that Turley has matured somewhat through his years in the city. "I've mellowed out a little," he admitted. "I don't try to fight every battle."

In the meantime, diners can salivate at the thought of a lamb foie gras terrine with fig compote (78 yuan) for a starter or seared sausage, cauliflower puree and chorizo sausage (68 yuan) if a hotter option is preferred.

Main courses are not expensive, but are not exactly inexpensive either. However, Maneo is serving ingredients that are far from run-of-the-mill and put together in creative fashion. A twist on the standard roasted Atlantic salmon risotto is that it is served with orange as well as beetroot, which is particularly Aussie in origin, while the herb-infused rice is made from goat cheese (172 yuan). Carnivores will dig the Australian rib-eye in red wine vinegar and spiced onion jam (178 yuan).

The front restaurant and bar features a slick, bright and cool design that is future chic - not quite unlike the space lounge imagined in Stanley Kubrick's masterpiece "2001: A Space Odyssey." Travel further into the room and the interior blends into softer woods but keeps with the coolness of the concept.

Diners are also bound to enjoy the attention of restaurant manager Kylee Strawbridge. The outgoing New Zealander has great attention for detail and a strong rapport with the kitchen team. The fact that she previously worked with Turley at 239 should translate into a seamless experience where the front of the house is in tune with the chef.

When Maneo started turning the gears of marketing, the thought that this would be "Mimosa-lite" popped to mind. However, after talking to all involved, it is clear that the only similarities between the two are that both buildings housing the restaurants were designed by the same Hungarian architect. Even that, according to Ashe, was a coincidence.

Address: 333 Tongren Road
Tel: 021-6427-9666