By Simon Farnham (Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2006-06-16 09:56

If you want to avoid all the World Cup hype and beered-up foreigners in football strips then this little French corner might provide a good antidote.

Close to the building sites of Sanlitun, yet strangely shielded from the noise, only the gentle tapping of scaffolders breaks through the gentle murmur of conversation. Le Petit Paris is an outdoor venue, although seating is available inside, and so is currently in its element. Not all the tables have umbrellas so there is the little issue of tree debris and falling insects to deal with, but you can't get away from nature, even in Beijing.

Drinks are reasonably priced with Qingdao at 15 yuan and a refreshing bottle of French cider at 20 yuan. There is a large selection of French wines which also come with a large price tag, and the Long Island Ice Tea at 45 yuan tastes like little more than a large vodka and coke in a big glass. There is a wide selection of food available, and although most of it is a bit pricey, the high volume of French patrons speaks volumes for its quality.

The bruschetta is good value and quality at 20 yuan and probably a better all round deal than the clam toast (26 yuan), the topping of which has a certain canned quality. The chicken Caesar salad, which doesn't look too hot and is scattered with stringy meat, is generally felt to be one of the better of its kind in the area.

Smoked pork breast with lentils (72 yuan) is very well presented, with a strong-flavoured pulse puree, although the meat could be cooked just a little longer.

Service is friendly but tardy at times and if you don't want to be hassled by beggars then don't sit next to the pavement. Le Petit Paris is a relaxing venue that is easy to find and fulfils both criteria of a bar and eatery.

Le Petit Paris
Location:Sanlitun Jiuba Jie
Opening hours: 9 am to 2-3 am
Tel: 010-64169381