(City Weekend)
Updated: 2006-04-20 09:27

There isn't much that's red about the Red House (aka HFZ), aside from the red flush rising off of intoxicated diners.

Stone gray walls and black, exposed pipe work contrast with carmine-colored chandeliers, which drip down from the ceiling, infusing the interior with a sleek, industrial feel.

The HFZ concept has a glittering history going back to the 1930s. It used to go by Chez Revere and Chez Louis before settling on the telling name, The Red House, in 1949.

After closing for several years, the culinary legend has reopened with the flavors one would expect from its French chef's Michelin background: foamy pumpkin soup with a creamy truffle dumpling, mullet fish with rocket leaves gnocchi, veal chop with pesto asparagus and potatoes gratin, a pina colada and green tea cake.

Appetizers start at an affordable RMB 55 and mains begin at RMB 120. Try the generously sized three-course meal for RMB 188. With artistic French fusion cuisine and justifiable prices, we're happy that HFZ has been resurrected.