Sureño

By J. Harold Meyer (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-12-17 15:26

Located between good old “Bar Street” Sanlitun Lu and bustling concept stores at The Village shopping area, The Opposite House has developed into one of the top must-have-visited places for its intriguing collection of bars and restaurants. From the North Asian tastes of Bei to the Mediterranean inspired tastes of Sureño, the chefs at The Opposite House aim to surprise with innovative views on traditional favorites.

To reach the Sureño restaurant, the venue of our choice this time, we first have to submit ourselves to the modern grandeur of the building. The big cubical structure emanates power and confidence. Glass walls allow us a glimpse inside and stimulate our curiosity for what awaits us inside. A pair of huge wooden doors, decorated with large brazen rivets, playfully mocks the Chinese tradition of exclusive entrances, reminding us that this a place out of the ordinary, a kind of Forbidden City of the leisurely and culinary kind.

After taking the futuristic, starship-style elevator one floor down to Sureño's home grounds, we were fortunate to enjoy the hospitality of Willem van Emden, Sureño's manager, who has an excellent sense of what his restaurant can offer to his discerning customers. Sureño's menu is distinctly Mediterranean. No limitations do apply other than using the exquisite ingredients the Mediterranean countries have to offer. Seafood is a focal point, but also refined salads and crudités, meat dishes and popular desserts are on offer. The menu is flexible and changing frequently, presenting highlights from the cuisines of Italy, France, Spain, Greece and even Morocco.

The menu we enjoyed presented us with the wonderful flavors from which Mediterranean food derives its popularity. Carefully presented by attentive staff with attention for visual detail, we enjoyed a nice journey along several culinary ports of call. The tasting appetizer plate offered a first reconnaissance of Sureño's food, sampling crunchy goat cheese soufflés and melon and ham from Parma. The latter being particularly satisfying, combining the strong, but never dominating taste of ruby red smoked ham with the soothing, fruity succulence of green sweet melon.

The seafood soup was a very successful recreation, or rather, emulation of the famous Orange-colored French Soupe de crustacés, combining crab, clams, shrimp and cherry tomatoes into an explosive, pure tasting experience. Refraining from adding loud herbs or blurring the intensive notes by adding cream deserves the highest praise to Sureño's chefs. This great dish is definitely one of Sureño's signature dishes that's worth the trip.

Sureño's interpretation of Ravioli demonstrates that this often stereotyped dish actually ranks amongst Italy's best culinary ideas. Filled with distinctly fresh sour goat cheese and semi-covered by a roe-colored, mildly sweet tomato cream sauce, Sureño's home made Ravioli indeed are the total opposite of the doughy dullness where the dish often is associated with.

Sureño's wine list is elaborated, you will find exquisite wines from all over the world. The wines chosen for you by Sureño's sommeliers are never to dominate, however. They have to serve the purpose of deepening your food experience. As did the very nice full bodied Chianti that went well with the trio of grilled lamb rack, shrimp and grilled beef with vinaigrette sauce.

Of course a great Mediterranean meal cannot end without a dessert that harmoniously closes the culinary cycle. Sureño has found the key, teasing the taste buds all right. Even notorious sweets averse food lovers will succumb to the stark dark-brown, very rich but not heavy flourless chocolate pie, the creamy Tiramisu or my absolute favorite, a simple, but gorgeously crispy apricot pie.

Top grade imported coffee and tea served with Italian Biscotti concluded a most pleasant dinner. It sets out Sureño as an excellent place for savoring Mediterranean delicacies in a modern and informal setting. Rates are starting from 250 RMB for more modest sets up to menus up that go up to 700 RMB. The deal is worth its price: Sureño's cuisine is nothing less than exceptional.

Location: No. 11, Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District

Tel:010-86106410

This article is brought you by Best Food inChina, an English website about local Chinese food and restaurants. For more information, please visitwww.bestfoodinchina.net