More for those who eat for fun

By Robert de Picciotto (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-12-05 09:38

Subu is owned by the son of the owner of the wildly successful South Beauty chain, and it’s clear he has applied his mother's knowledge of the industry while striving for something more progressive. Every detail, from the pink capsule-like stalls in the bathroom to the hand-painted silk walls in one of the private rooms, is designed to be fresh and different.

A giant ribcage of colors frames the main dining area while gangly arms sprawl out along either side, filled with starry white domes. Immediately, you are enveloped in an atmosphere. An attitude. Posh. Hip. The main dining area is a stark white, splashed with an almost 70s retro palette of pinks and oranges that add a playful funk.

The dozen or so domes house circular private dining areas, each seating up to 12 guests at neatly set, sparkling black tables and each boasting its own design, from black horsehair-lined to a burlap-like lime green, a silver upholstery to a bright red leather. The different styles are made to fit different sensibilities (Zhang ZiYi likes the pink one) and different occasions. Further adding to this custom environment is the fact that the domes are all sound proof, for privacy in meetings or personalized soundtracks.

The staff is no exception to the effort to be hip and progressive, from the young, all-black clad servers with spiky haircuts du jour who waited on us intently, to the Cantonese chef, one of the top ten in China. His challenge is to fuse the strikingly different cuisines of Sichuan, Guangdong, and Japan into a unified whole. He researches current trends from all cuisines for inspiration and, produces 15 new dishes a month, from which 7 – 8 are chosen to be featured on the seasonal menu.

Gong Bao Ji Ding Sushi RollThe first dish was a statement of the chef’s commitment to experiment. The traditional Chinese dish was deconstructed, with the peanut element found crushed on top of each roll, the spicy chicken wrapped inside with cucumber and onions. Even the original bronze tinge of traditional Gong Bao Ji Ding was represented in the bright orange crab roe of the outside layer.

Tender Bamboo Shoot in Scallion OilLike a pile of felled palm trees resting on a leaf, these soft, pulpy shoots with flecks of scallions revealed the chef’s restraint: despite the atmosphere of extravagance, he opted to let the subtle flavors of the ingredient take center stage.

Mixed Roasted Goose Tripe with Chili SauceA mound of winding tripe with green chili flecks scattered on top in a studied mess. The meat had a rubbery chew and a heavy dose of sharp, spiky garlic. It’s clear the chef at Subu takes great pains to use only the best ingredients and to put them to their best use. This is particularly evident in his use of fine oils. The sesame and sweet chili oils, lying like a pool of liquid amber at the bottom of the dish, had the richness of truffle oil and sweet notes of cotton candy that rounded off the garlic’s rough edges.

Beef Ribs with Pineapple in Hot Stone PotA brown stew beneath a ring of pineapple in a steel pot, the presentation belied the quality of the contents. The beef melted away in the mouth, leaving only the bone that had imbued the whole dish with such deep, rich flavor. The pineapple had mellowed after stewing, absorbing the surrounding flavors but retaining its pungency that pierced through the dish and adding a tart dimension. And then there was the sauce: a seriously scrumptious demi-glace coated the fruit and meat in a savory, velvety, chocolaty, warm, indulgent goodness. This dish alone sealed the deal for my return.

For all its flash, Subu is surprisingly more inviting than exclusive. The variety of seating options and dishes on the menu means you can make what you want of the experience. The prices don’t preclude anyone from a visit, either: topping out at a nearly 1000 RMB fish entrée, most are within the 30 – 60 range. Take a date to impress, a few clients to surprise, or a whole pack of friends to celebrate. You’ll feel cool just being there, and cooler for being the one who knew about it.

SubuLocation: 4F, Financial street shopping mall, No.2 JinChenFang street Tel:010-66220211/66220261

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