CITY GUIDE >Food Reviews
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CITY GUIDE >Food Reviews
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All in one
By Neil Yeung (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-20 17:30
Nestled within the lush greenery of People’s Park, Art Lab is a wonderfully refreshing concept space that must be experienced. Located on the top level above the Museum of Contemporary Art, it is a combination lounge, gallery, restaurant, and rooftop patio where art and lifestyle meld together in unique interaction. Entering the museum, visitors ascend a sweeping walkway, past huge vibrant portraits and cartoons from local artists, towards the third floor that Art Lab calls home. There is art everywhere, which is part of the overwhelming charm. Audience interaction is encouraged, which helps patrons get up close and inquisitive with the pieces that surround them. Art Lab’s overall concept is “art for living,” an ideal marriage of art and everyday life. Their current theme, “artificial nature,” immediately envelops visitors upon entering the lounge area: bright colorful shapes are painted on the floor, creating depth with the use of different shades of verdant green and line thickness. On the wall, a giant snake made of backpacks - designed by Ai Wei Wei, the artistic consultant for the Beijing Bird’s Nest - undulates towards the bar. A garden of colorful cushioned chairs and sofas dot the floor, a scattered geometric puzzle for hip, happy hour patrons. Origami flowers, giant metal lotuses, drawings on the walls, real “fossils” of favorite cartoon animals like Miffy and Hello Kitty, and ingenious organic furniture creations serve to further occupy the visitor in this adult funhouse. In the ultimate embodiment of the natural theme, this artwork will pass with the seasons, making room for next year’s theme and, literally, a brand new atmosphere. Before the overhaul, it is highly recommended to stop by now and at least check out their bathrooms (the walls, especially). If anything, it succeeds in eliciting a strong reaction, one of many that contribute to the sensory overload. Past the rooftop patio, diners are seated in the restaurant space, an understated and comfortable area to enjoy the meal ahead. The cuisine itself is described by general manager Franco as “No Border Cuisine.” The focus is on taste, freshness and nutritional value. Like the art installations around you, selections are seasonal, with new ideas and flavors replacing those that came before. They are also quite artfully presented. This aesthetic was most apparent with the tomato consommé with diced bean curd tower (45 RMB). Perched atop a stack of diced pepper, a seemingly single slice of silky tofu scattered into perfect cubes as clear tomato consommé was poured into the bowl from a Chinese teapot. Playful and tasty, it is an apt example of what to expect. Their truffle risotto with pan-seared foie gras (128 RMB) was a decadent one-two combo of savory richness, so good that we unfortunately came close to fullness before the mains even arrived. These mains – grilled Kobe beef (228 RMB) and salmon (150 RMB) – were competent, but met hard competition with that risotto. The steak was deliciously rich and buttery, with that signature marbleized creaminess, but some bits were a little tough. The oven-roasted salmon, covered in a crust of pistachio and served with white barley mash and raisin, apple and arugula salad, was a nice combination. Servings for both dishes were more filling than at other Shanghai restaurants, so sharing is recommended. Although we were already quite stuffed, we finished with two dessert plates. First, the Asian Trio (68 RMB), which had mixed results. A tart sake raspberry jelly was cooling and interesting, like grown-up Jell-O, while the green tea mousse was pleasant. We were most excited for the wasabi cheesecake, but the taste wasn’t what we expected. There was a hint of the savory, but without the kick of horseradish, we couldn’t figure out whether it was wasabi or garlic. The Chocolate Fondant was more successful. With gooey lava cake, creamy melted chocolate with Bailey’s, and some sweet strawberry ice cream, it was a fitting end to an already unorthodox dining experience. At Art Lab, both food and venue exude an intriguing alternative to regular fine dining. Everything about the place seems to be in constant flux, a constantly evolving concept that maintains freshness and creativity with ephemeral installations and a menu that cannot be contained by the constraints of normal contemporary fare. Taste isn’t the only thing at work here; by the time you exit into People’s Park, your sense of sight, sound, smell and even touch will have had a nice workout. Truly exciting. Art Lab This article is brought you by Best Food inChina, the first and leading English website about local Chinese food and restaurants. For more information, please visitwww.bestfoodinchina.net |
