Shanghai Nights

By Christina Traugott (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-12 11:17

What many consider the hallmark restaurant of Xintiandi, yè shanghai (meaning “Shanghai Nights”) has been serving a modern fusion of dishes reflecting Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghainese styles from its Shikumen house location for over 6 years now. With a gorgeous interior and tasty dishes, yè shanghai is the perfect place to impress a date or business colleagues.

Beautiful red lanterns and dimly-lit environs create a classy, enticing atmosphere that transports visitors to the decadent Shanghai of the 1920s. Live music, traditionally- dressed waitstaff and antique furnishings complete the scene.

Hsu Mou Ki, the original yè shanghai executive chef at the chain's first location in Hong Kong, now runs the kitchens at both the Xintiandi and Pudong branches. He proudly undertakes the challenge of creating dishes that reflect the rich culinary tradition of Shanghai and its the surrounding provinces while also catering to more international taste buds. Carefully-crafted modern variations result in dishes prepared less sugary and oily than their conventional versions. In the same vein, the knowledgeable kitchen staff happily accommodate food allergies, reflecting a flexibility that cannot be underestimated when choosing an appropriate dining place for more diverse groups.

As an appetizer, the Deep-fried Whole Prawn with Broadbean Sauce is a guaranteed favorite. The large pieces of prawn are lightly battered, non-greasy and perfected coated with a slightly sweet and spicy sauce. More adventurous diners should try the perfectly layered pork terrine and crispy eel. A new personal favorite, I found the crisp Wuxi-style eel to be especially sumptuous and distinctly enjoyable.

A must order amongst the many tempting main dishes is the Sauteed Minced Chicken with Pinenuts. Though traditionally served with thin doughy wrappers, Chef Hsu instead offers patrons flaky, Beijing-style sesame seed- coated pastry pockets to fill with the dish. The result is an irresistible combination. And the pastries alone are so sumptuous that customers often ask to take an extra set home. Equally delectable is the moist, lean steak lightly coated with sweet Chinese barbecue sauce and served with a simple fruit salad.

Even non-veggie lovers can appreciate the crisp string beans and bamboo shoots lightly coated with a flavorful beef and sha-cha sauce. If you somehow manage to not be too stuffed by the end of the meal, try the interesting mango pudding dessert served in the distinctly Chinese way- with a sweet cherry tomato. Unlike many versions, the pudding actually has the taste of real mangoes that this reviewer can't resist.

For beverages, definitely sample yè's signature Pu’er/ Chrystanthemum tea combination and specially commissioned yellow wine. The wine is said to help one's appetite and has even been associated with decreased risk of coronary disease. Served warm and actually more brownish in color, the alcohol is a bit of an acquired taste but recommended for those looking to complete a truly authentic meal.

On weekends, yè shanghai reveals its Hong Kong roots by offering an excellent dim sum brunch. With a great variety of offerings (including wonderfully juicy pork soup dumplings) and authentic flavors, it's the perfect Saturday or Sunday treat.

With Shanghai's largest round table (with seating for up to 24) and 3 smaller private rooms, yè shanghai also has the ideal setup for a large business gathering or celebratory meal. And unlike at most large Chinese dinners, guests won't have to reach over each other to get a taste of all the delectable dishes. Instead, yè's staff provide individual platings to ensure a less stressful experience.

Amidst the ever-changing tastes in Shanghai, unsurprisingly, this restaurant attracts a steady stream of customers from local residents to travelers and big-name international celebrities and athletes because of its consistently high-quality service and food. All waitstaff undergo intensive training to make sure that customers' experiences in any of the chain's 4 locations (2 in Shanghai and 2 in Hong Kong) is attentive without being oppressive. Likewise, chefs are rigorously trained to ensure the food is reliably delicious whichever branch kitchen it happens to come from. So, for a modern Shanghainese cuisine in an upscale setting, yè shanghai has to rank high on any list.

This article is brought you by Best Food inChina, the first and leading English website about local Chinese food and restaurants. For more information, please visitwww.bestfoodinchina.net