All good but the price

By Neil Yeung (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-12 10:46

T 8’s reputation and image are so far-reaching that it has become a contemporary Shanghai institution. A sophisticated restaurant in the already posh Xintiandi area, T8 stands tall as one of the most well-known spots in town by both Shanghai residents and those overseas. However, depending on whom you talk to, the hype surrounding T8 is either duly warranted or highly exaggerated.

Through the narrow alleys that create a maze within the blocks of the classic shikumen-style houses in Xintiandi, T8 patiently waits for clientele attracted by hearsay and recommendations. The air of the restaurant is indeed elevated, which could be construed as pretentious or haughty. Staff are all professionally dressed and bilingual. Decor is gorgeous and bold, with hardwood and dark stone complemented by touches of fresh flowers and metallic accents. The centerpiece of the main dining area is an open kitchen, with tables radiating spaciously outwards toward the bar and secluded lounge areas near the windows. Overall, it is warm and classy.

Their standard menu is simple and straightforward, hitting the diner with the best they have to offer. Prices might be a concern for the casual diner: soups and salads range from 118 to 188 RMB, while mains are anywhere from 278 RMB (lamb) to 438 RMB (beef). However, actually sampling the kitchen favorites helped to partially justify those prices.

The two most popular starters on the menu – tataki of sesame crusted tuna (158 RMB) and Sichuan seared king prawns (148 RMB for start size, 268 RMB for main size) – were the first hint of why T8 is so talked about. The tuna, quickly seared and a deep gorgeous pink on the inside, melted on the tongue. Black caviar and pickled daikon radish gave the neutral freshness of the fish a nice salty compliment. The giant prawns, marinated in a pleasant Sichuan pepper that was more fragrant than spicy, were not as flavorsome as the tuna, but nonetheless well executed.

A third starter – foie gras creme brulee (148 RMB) – was a personal favorite, inspiring a few instances where I had to just sit back, close my eyes, and savor the experience and sensation. Cracking through the sugary crust, the foie gras was creamy and thick, not too sweet or overpowering. Served atop toasted brioche with optional (but recommend) toppings like sweet apple compote, spicy Sichuan-pepper pear, decadent dark chocolate flakes or thick tangy balsamic, it was simply excellent.

The first main was a 450-day grain fed Australian Wagyu beef tenderloin (438 RMB) that was expertly paired with a 2005 Australian Shiraz (180 RMB per glass) by manager Walter Zahner. The combination of the deep, full-bodied red wine and the buttery beef was fantastic. Still pleasantly reeling from the steak experience, we finished with a slow-cooked lamb and Sichuan high pie (238 RMB), a clever combo of English and Chinese comfort food. The lamb was fresh and tender inside the crispy pastry crust. The yellow curry coriander bisque gave a strong kick, with a heavy gingery warmth that would be ideal in the icy winter months.

From the start, which included a complementary shot of T8’s seasonal beverage (currently, fresh watermelon juice and mint foam) and a personal tin of fluffy raisin bread, to the decadently sweet ending of “Chocolate Addiction,” a rich sampler of warm lava cake, a silky tart, thick brownie, sorbet, and passion fruit-flavored white chocolate, the meal was delicious. Depending on whether diners are willing to pay the price for this quality is a different story, though the service, food and atmosphere are worth it. T8 is an ideal place to make an impression.

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