For both culinary and architectural delights

By J. Harold Meyer (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-12 09:44

With foreigners, the West of Beijing is not well known for its restaurant scene. Beijing locals however - particularly the puissantly wealthy ones - cherish the West for its proximity to the Western Mountains, the bustling couleur locale and ample opportunity for excellent dining experiences. One of which is presented by a long time Beijing favorite, the thoroughly refurbished Nishimura restaurant that offers authentic Japanese cuisine in a modern, dynamic environment.

Located on the second floor of the Shangri-La Hotel, the Nishimura has been hailed for its culinary as well as architectural delights. To start with the latter: Nishimura last year was awarded the "Best Interior Design in the Restaurant Dining" prize sponsored by Interior Design and Hotels. Using mostly wood, the interior architects from Hong Kong turned architecture into sculpture, creating a place that blurs the line between design and art.

Entering the 5,400-square-foot restaurant, we see a Sake bar and get an impressive view of a 26-foot-long partition assembled from countless sheets of engineered plywood. As we approach the partition, we encounter two curved openings dug into a 4-foot-thick wall, providing patrons on both sides of the wall tantalizing, shifting views.

The whole setting in wooden and earth-colored tones is just a prelude to the Japanese cuisine that is maintained at top level. Having arrived just in time for the Olympics, Tokyo-born chef Masayasu Haruyama has swiftly taken the helm of probably Beijing's best Japanese restaurant. And proudly so, as he presents a true carousel of Japanese delights such as the double boiled Dobinmushi soup drawn from Bonito fish, top grade Sashimi or a truly creative marriage arrangement of avocado and lobster in salad form.

Nishimura presents the largest selection of Sake rice wines in Beijing. And that is important to notice, as the equilibrium of food and drink is extremely important in Japanese cuisine. I was invited to try the Toyama Sake: Decanted from an impressive cooling device, this brisk and still gentle liquor from middle Japan goes very well with the mildly sweet sautéed Gindara codfish, the classical eel in soy sauce and the highlight of this evening, the beef with Shiitake mushrooms. This refreshingly crisp creation of thinly sliced beef, mushrooms and fine herbs is definitely worth a visit.

Three kinds of attractively presented seaweed brought a truly breezy intermezzo before we mastered the complexities of a subtle Miso soup in conjunction with a rice bowl topped with a tempura of fried vegetables. A creative idea that proves Japanese cuisine is not just perennially traditional but also innovative. A New Year's treat from Japan, red beans with rice cake, concluded our meal that presented many shades of subtle refinement.

Nishimura has a friendly, gracious atmosphere, with the chefs preparing dishes at the table and the staff catering to every need with attentive service. The food is excellent, a truly cultural experience of the highest standards. And, yes, more than worth the trip from splendid Chaoyang expatriate isolation.

Nishimura

Location: 2/F, Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing, No. 29, Zizhuyuan Lu
Tel:(86 10) 6841 2211 ext. 6719

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