CITY GUIDE >Food Reviews
|
CITY GUIDE >Food Reviews
|
|
Epitome of avant-garde and modernity
By Brian Sun (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-11 16:21
If there is a district that epitomizes Shanghai blaze towards modernization, the gleaming skyscrapers looming over Lujiazui aptly fits the picture. At the culinary level, if there was a quest for a restaurant that symbolizes avant-garde and modernity, there would be no better contender than Jade on 36. With close to three years of stage time, Jade has received her fair share of compliments and criticisms. It is not easy being different and Paul Pairet, the French chef who heads the kitchen, certainly pushes the envelope. Quite easily misunderstood, this is a form of fine dining that removed “tradition” from the kitchen and returned with a contemporary version of flavors and textures from around the world. Perhaps this explains why the fois gras looks like the perfect chocolate opera cake but retains the savory indulgence. Chef De Cuisine Paul Pairet’s international career has brought him to Asia, Hong Kong and Sydney. Exposed to the fragrance, textures, flavours and tastes from his travels, Paul gives new emotions and meaning to his creative dishes inspired by these experiences. It is no surprise that Jade’s menu is christened “cuisine de voyage” by Pairet. There are four tasting menus with combinations of seafood and meats Each tasting menu is carefully structured to represent the look, texture and flavor of each dish. It seems complex but quickly enlightens with the savvy descriptions offered by the astute waiters or suave French gentleman, Fabien Verdier, Operations Manager. When the “cuisine de voyage” begins, it is like a culinary roller coaster that seduces or even confuses your taste buds. The first tilt of Kumamoto oysters onto your tongue will surprise you with the silky texture followed by the natural salty taste and a closing icy chill. Though the portions are small, there is a quick turnaround of dishes by the deft hands of the discreet waiters. It is almost difficult to keep count but the bouillabaisse is an incredible dish that is a toasted brioche with truffle and a foamy version of beurre meuniere. The giant shrimp in citrus jar is visually exciting but do savor the lemongrass and orange fragrance just when the lid is opened. The black cod is steamed so perfectly that its flesh retains its firm texture while absorbing the ginger and soya sauce marinade. If you are not already aware, some dishes should remind us of something you know or at least you “feel” you know. Some even refer to it as molecular gastronomy, where cooking becomes both a science and craft. This is why a dessert can look like eggs benedict but taste sweet with coconut filling. The lemon tart tastes like a tart but cleverly encapsulated in an edible lemon rind that is soaked in vanilla syrup for 36 hours. If the food has not awed you entirely, the supreme view of the Bund from the 36th floor of the new tower of the Shangri-la Hotel would be the deal-clincher. For a romantic date, a reservation by the window will guarantee a charmed evening. Overall, this form of cuisine can be interpreted in so many ways, which gives it a liberating touch. It may not be traditional fare but it is certainly a privilege to have this class of cuisine in Shanghai. Jade on 36 This article is brought you by Best Food inChina, the first and leading English website about local Chinese food and restaurants. For more information, please visitwww.bestfoodinchina.net |
