Old dad tea gets seriously cool

Laobacha, literally "old dad tea", is a teahouse tradition unique to South China's Hainan province. Serving tea alongside an abundant spread of pastries, dim sum and local snacks, it has become a symbol of the island's easygoing lifestyle.

In recent years, Hainan has reimagined the century-old tradition, transforming this everyday tea-and-snack ritual into a vibrant cultural attraction that celebrates local heritage while driving tourism and consumer spending.

The custom is believed to have been introduced by overseas Hainan people returning from Southeast Asia about a century ago. It first took root in Haikou's historic Qilou (arcade building) Block during the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and the early 20th century. Because its earliest regulars were mostly elderly men — affectionately called laoba in the Hainan dialect — the tradition came to be known as Laobacha, or "old dad tea".

In 2024, the custom was officially included in the sixth batch of representative provincial intangible cultural heritage items in Hainan province. Today, more than 4,000 Laobacha teahouses can be found across the island, from roadside eateries to modern shopping malls.

Laobacha follows a simple philosophy — affordable tea paired with an abundant variety of snacks. While the tea menu is straightforward, the food selection is remarkably diverse.

Popular brews include Hainan green tea, Shuiman tea, "Partridge" tea, Kuding tea and pandan tea, as well as classics such as Tieguanyin (a southern Fujian oolong), Pu'er, Longjing (Dragon Well green tea), chrysanthemum tea and more. A local favorite is Hainan-style coffee sweetened with condensed milk.

The snacks are typically grouped into small, medium, large and premium portions. Steamed favorites include chicken feet, shrimp dumplings and pork ribs, while fried offerings range from youtiao (fried dough sticks) to crispy bread.

Diners can also enjoy coconut sticky rice cakes, meat-filled zongzi, stir-fried noodles, Hainan rice noodles and Hou'an rice noodles. Larger Laobacha teahouses often prepare more than 100 different dishes each day.

XINHUA — CHINA DAILY