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Italian chef creates a culinary symphony using local ingredients

By He Qi in Shanghai | China Daily | Updated: 2025-04-24 05:51
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Italian chef Niko Romito is redefining gastronomic borders in Shanghai with his latest spring menu. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Matthias Terrettaz, general manager of the Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai says:"Our partnership with Romito is not only about cuisine, but about a shared vision of refined Italian lifestyle."

Romito's journey from a small trattoria in Abruzzo to global culinary prominence is as layered as his dishes. Growing up in a family of bakers and cheesemakers, he inherited a reverence for simplicity.

"I have many memories of my father's pastry shop, but I also remember spending time with my grandfather, a true food lover who aged cheeses and cured meats in his cellar. This shaped my ideas and my taste for simple but excellent products," he recalls.

When fate intervened in 1999, Romito and his sister, then novices, took over their father's trattoria. What began as a temporary endeavor evolved into a lifelong pursuit, driven by a curiosity for transforming traditional recipes through modern techniques. "I started by replicating Abruzzese classics, but my heart was filled with doubt," he says.

When not in the kitchen, Romito immersed himself in reading and learning. A pivotal moment came when he discovered Vacuum: Cooking by Joan Roca and Salvador Brugues, a book that introduced him to avant-garde techniques. "I was filled with questions and sought answers in this book," he recalls.

His culinary journey was further shaped by two transformative internships — a month at the two-Michelin-starred (now three-star) Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain; and a stint at the two-Michelin-starred Caino in Tuscany, Italy. "These experiences opened my eyes to the possibilities of cooking," he says.

Over time, he deepened his study of ingredient-focused techniques, refining his creativity and developing a signature style rooted in purity and innovation.

"I've always loved using simple, common ingredients, not only because I love them but also because I believe that the role of the chef should be to make something extraordinary from the ordinary," he explains.

This philosophy extends to his worldwide Il Ristorante — Niko Romito empire, where menus adjust to local markets while retaining an Italian essence. In Tokyo, he explores yuzu, a citrus fruit; in Dubai, saffron and cardamom enrich his dishes; and in cities like Rome, Milan, Paris, and Shanghai, he continues to innovate.

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