Shanghai's historic food street is once again riding high

A once popular food street in Shanghai, Zhapu Road is now experiencing a resurgence after years of decline thanks to the restoration of historic buildings and the opening of new shops and restaurants.

These changes are part of a broader transformation aimed at establishing the area as a historic cultural district and a base for the film and television industry.

Known as one of Shanghai's earliest food streets, Zhapu Road located in Hongkou district initially rose to fame in the 1980s, riding the wave of China's economic reforms. It used to be Shanghai's popular cuisine street, where over 200 restaurants were packed along a small, 1-kilometer stretch.

From local Shanghai-style stir-fries to Cantonese seafood flown in from the south, the street offered a diverse selection of culinary delights from across the country, introducing a fresh dining culture that transformed the way Shanghai residents approached eating out.

However, as the years passed, Zhapu Road struggled to keep pace with the rapid evolution of the restaurant industry and growing competition. The street's aging infrastructure, with water, electricity, and sewage systems dating back to the 1930s, was unable to meet modern demands despite multiple renovations. Traffic congestion, narrow roads, and the lack of parking facilities further constrained its potential for redevelopment. As a result, Zhapu Road's reputation as a culinary hotspot gradually faded.

The revival plan of the street was sparked by the film She's Got No Name, which is directed by iconic Hong Kong director Peter Chan, stars Zhang Ziyi and debuted at Cannes Film Festival on May 24. The film is based on a 1945 case of a Shanghai woman who murdered her husband due to domestic violence.

In January this year, the film's set, located at the intersection of Zhapu Road and Beihaining Road, was unveiled, recreating the street's historical look from the 1930s and 1940s. This set has become a popular attraction for both locals and tourists, who flock to the area to take photos and immerse themselves in the nostalgic atmosphere.

A similar trend was seen late last year when the TV drama Blossoms Shanghai sparked renewed interest in Huanghe Road, another food street in Huangpu district.

"The 'tick-off' craze triggered by films or literary works can be seen as a way for city residents to reinforce their sense of identity. In an ever-changing urban environment, these cultural hotspots create a connection between individuals and the city, as well as between personal and historical narratives." Tang Weijie, a professor at Tongji University, was quoted as saying by Wenhui Daily.

Leveraging the cultural influence of She's Got No Name, Shanghai plans to transform Zhapu Road into a film-themed leisure and food street, with an official opening ceremony set for September.

The development of Zhapu Road is "not targeted at a specific movie, but rather has a more long-term consideration in terms of scene restoration for the entire street area," said Hongkou district Sichuan North Road sub-district office deputy director Huang Yi.

The landmark of the historic street is the Victory Cinema on the road. It was once one of the most important cinemas in the area and a gathering place for early Shanghai cinemas and theaters, known as the famous "golden triangle" of films and theaters. The Victory Cinema, which has been in existence for nearly a century and undergone several changes, has now been restored to its former glory. In addition to its role as a cinema, it has also transformed into a venue for fashion shows and exhibitions.

Many unique and influential restaurants have gradually set up shop in newly revitalized buildings. The district hopes that these establishments will bring the sophistication of a big city while preserving the vibrant and traditional everyday atmosphere of local life.

A trolleybus, painted green and white with "Route 8" written on the front in the classic style of old Shanghai, stops by the street. Once a key prop in She's Got No Name, it will soon be transformed into a cafe, one of the most favored spots by young people, and will be permanently parked near the Victory Cinema.

Zhou Jiayi contributed to this story.