From Northern Italy

By Peggy Rosen (cityweekend.com.cn)
Updated: 2008-04-16 11:13

Porta Nova is a new addition to the ethnic eateries along Hongmei Lu. Famished and eager to satisfy our appetites we perused a menu peppered with molto descriptions in Italian, looking for authentic favorites.

For starters we opted for the Insalata Caprese (68 yuan). The tomatoes and mozzarella were smothered with an olive oil basil emulsion which was satisfying to the palate. Though beautifully presented, the portion was meant to please a Lilliputian and definitely required more mozzarella and fresh basil for the price. Pasta choices are abundant including Lasagna al Forno (58 yuan) as well as the Gnocchetti Verdi al ragu (68 yuan) which we sampled, a homemade green gnocchi topped with a light ragu sauce of tender beef shank bits which did not disappoint.

Angel hair pasta served with prawns and clams and flavored with a hint of garlic and olive oil was also very pleasing though molto skimpo (78 yuan). The tasty and reasonably priced Margherita Pizza (46 yuan) had an acceptable pizza crust complimented with a cheesy tomato basil sauce giving this staple a slightly different twist. Tiramisu (38 yuan) at any Italian restaurant is a must-try. Unfortunately, this one didn't hit the mark.

The mascarpone was lightly whipped, but close to tasteless, as was the absence of any rich coffee flavor and hardly a lady finger to be found. Italian food is envisioned as hearty and bountiful. Porto Nova provides the hearty. Bountiful could be revisited.

Add: No. 40, Lane 3338 Hongmei Lu
Tel: 6465-7788