From bouldering to BMX, emerging sports gain a grip

Climbing new heights

The results at the Aichi-Nagoya Asian Games reflect the progress these sports have made, but the challenge now is to turn the attention generated by major events into sustained public participation.

China won two golds, one silver and one bronze in sport climbing at the Aichi-Nagoya Asian Games, reflecting progress in a discipline that requires strength, technique, problem-solving and mental control.

For 23-year-old Zhang Yuetong, the path to the top began when she was 4 years old, and her career has not been without setbacks.

In 2019, Zhang fractured three fingers while competing in Toulouse, France. Her father told her that if she decided to quit climbing, she could return to her studies or aim to start a business. "I want to keep climbing," she told him.

After recovering, she made another unconventional decision. Despite having already achieved results in lead climbing, she switched to bouldering, a discipline in which she was not yet among the top competitors.

Cai Luyuan, an international route setter who coached Zhang on the national team, was initially doubtful about the move. But Zhang was firm about her choice. "She simply loved bouldering," Cai said.

While lead climbing challenges athletes to progress as far as possible on a high, roped route, bouldering involves a series of shorter, technically demanding problems completed without ropes above safety mats. Climbers must read the holds, plan their movements and adjust their approach as they go.

Zhang often bypasses conventional routes, however, finding alternative paths that suit her climbing style.

"I had this ability to judge routes from a very young age," she said. "Most of the time, the ideas come to me through feel. When I realize something isn't working as expected, I can quickly come up with another solution."

Her instincts were shaped by years of exposure to different climbing environments. Her father, Zhang Jiandong, took her between climbing gyms in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, and Hong Kong, allowing her to experience different climbing routes and styles.

Zhou Yafei started on a climbing wall at her school in Songyang county, Zhejiang province, before going on to compete at the Paris Olympics and the Aichi-Nagoya Asian Games.

Climbing is also drawing more people beyond the competitive circuit.

Chen Junyi, a climbing gym operator in Guangdong has noticed the change. "In the past, it was always the same small group of familiar faces. Now, wherever I look, I see new climbers," he said.

The trend is reflected in industry data. According to the China Mountaineering Association, China had 811 commercial climbing gyms as of January 2025. Data from lifestyle platform Meituan showed that searches for climbing gyms rose 60 percent year-on-year in 2025, while climbing-related transactions increased by 94 percent.

But attracting newcomers is only the first step. Keeping them involved requires sustained investment in facilities, route setting, safety and coaching.

Chen said China still lacks a fully standardized curriculum for climbing instruction. Coaches come from a range of backgrounds, including retired athletes, university sports students and experienced climbing enthusiasts. Even those with a sports background but no climbing experience may need several years to develop the skills required to coach professionally.

As climbing gains popularity, more grassroots coaches are needed to guide beginners and young climbers, helping first-time visitors develop the skills and confidence to become regular participants and, potentially, competitive athletes.