Award-winning sweet wine signals China's industry shift

At first swirl, aromas of pineapple, papaya and honey rise from the glass, followed by floral notes and a faint pastry-like richness. On the palate, the wine is sweet yet strikingly fresh, with vibrant acidity balancing the concentrated fruit flavors.

But this is not a famous dessert wine from France or Hungary. It is a sweet white wine from Huailai county in North China's Hebei province — Amethyard Petit Manseng Sweet White Wine 2024.

On April 24, the wine achieved what few in China's wine industry expected. At the 2026 Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards in Macao, it defeated more than 800 entries from nearly 180 wineries to win the competition's top honor, Best Wine of China.

For an industry long dominated by cabernet sauvignon and marselan reds, the victory of a sweet white wine signaled a broader shift. Producers are increasingly experimenting with new grape varieties and styles while building stronger regional identities.

"There is one school of thought that the top winner should be a red wine because 90 percent of the industry is red wine," said Iain Riggs, the veteran Australian wine judge who served on this year's judging panel. "But we are seeing more white wine being made and more white wine being consumed."

Riggs described the winning Petit Manseng as a wine with "lovely characters of preserved fruit and citrus, with sweetness, richness and balance". More importantly, he said, the result shows the world that China's wine industry is "not just cabernet and marselan".

The judging panel included 23 international wine experts, among them Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers, who evaluated entries through blind tastings using the international 100-point system.

Behind the award-winning bottle is veteran winemaker Jiang Yanjun, whose four decades in the industry mirror much of modern Chinese wine history.

Jiang entered Shacheng Winery in Hebei in 1979 at the age of 16, witnessing the early production of China's modern dry wine industry. Over the decades, he worked across vineyards and wineries in Hebei and Xinjiang, building a reputation as a hands-on winemaker shaped more by field experience than formal academic training.

In 2024, Jiang returned to his hometown in Huailai to lead winemaking at Huailai Amethyst Manor. That same year, unusually heavy rainfall created severe challenges for local vineyards.

While many in the industry repeat the saying "70 percent viticulture, 30 percent winemaking," Jiang has his own philosophy. "In my view, it's 95 percent vineyard work and only 5 percent winemaking," he said. "The foundation is always in the vineyard."

As heavy rains threatened the grapes, Jiang organized drainage trenches across the vineyards to prevent waterlogging and root damage. Disease prevention quickly became a daily priority.

In the cellar, Jiang used extended pressing, low-temperature fermentation and semi-manual bottling to preserve freshness and aromatic purity. He also deliberately moved away from the heavily oaked, high-alcohol style that once dominated global fine wine trends.

"Chinese culture values balance and harmony," Jiang said. "Wine should reflect nature, not excessive intervention."

He believes Chinese wines should also pair naturally with local cuisine. The Petit Manseng's floral freshness and bright acidity make it especially suitable for spicy dishes, desserts and afternoon tea — combinations he sees as distinctly Chinese expressions of wine culture.

The award quickly drew market attention, with distributors from Singapore, Macao and the Chinese mainland seeking allocations immediately after the ceremony. Yet, challenges remain.

"The biggest problem is cost," Jiang said. "Both land and labor are expensive, and it is difficult for Chinese wineries to compete through mass production."

Riggs noted that overseas consumers remain far more familiar with traditional European wine regions.

"If someone in London or New York looks at a wine from Bordeaux and a wine from China at the same high price, they usually buy the Bordeaux because they know it," he said. "The quality of Chinese wine needs to be super high to match the super high price."

Still, industry figures believe China's younger generation of internationally trained winemakers can gradually build global credibility while developing wines with stronger regional character.