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Currents carry history of capitals

By DENG ZHANGYU | China Daily | Updated: 2025-11-27 07:50
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A visitor clad in traditional attire enjoys the nightlife in Kaifeng, Henan. LI ZONGXIAN/FOR CHINA DAILY

When the Yellow River flows into the heart of the Central Plains in Henan province, it carries more than just silt from the Loess Plateau — it bears years of Chinese civilization in its currents.

Across this land steeped in history, the ancient capitals of Anyang, Luoyang and Kaifeng shimmer like pearls strung along the river, which forms a living chronicle of China's story.

Just follow the rhythm of the Yellow River and embark on a time-travel journey through the Shang (c. 16th century-11th century BC), Tang (618-907) and Northern Song (960-1127) dynasties.

Stepping into Anyang is like walking into the dawn of Chinese civilization. This is where archaeologists discovered the Yinxu Ruins, the capital of China's Shang Dynasty.

The real magic lies in the oracle bone script, the earliest known form of Chinese writing. In the Yinxu Museum, visitors can see turtle shells and animal bones inscribed with mysterious symbols. These weren't decorations, but how ancient kings communicated with the gods about everything from weather forecasts to battle outcomes.

Meanwhile, the collection of bronze ritual vessels and jade artifacts displayed alongside these inscriptions demonstrates the highly sophisticated craftsmanship and artistic achievement of the Shang civilization.

Just beyond the museum at the Yinxu Ruins, the Tomb of Fu Hao breathes life into ancient history. This legendary female general's burial site revealed 1,928 precious artifacts — bronze vessels, jade ornaments, ivory carvings and pottery — creating a vivid portrait of the country's first documented female military leader.

The ruins also include palace grounds, temple ruins, royal tombs and burial areas, offering a comprehensive understanding of the Shang Dynasty.

After exploring Anyang, the journey shifts to Luoyang.

At the ancient capital of 13 dynasties, history transforms from static exhibits into immersive, hands-on experiences — wearing Tang-style costumes, eating delicacies enjoyed by Tang nobility, and strolling among peony blossoms just as the Tang people did over 1,000 years ago.

Step into the world of the Tang Dynasty, where culture is not just observed — it is lived.

In Luoyang's old town, streets come alive with visitors dressed in elaborate costumes, set against a backdrop of well-preserved ancient architecture. The scene creates an immersive atmosphere that feels like a direct portal to the prosperous dynasty.

Visitors take a close look at relics at the Yinxu Museum in Anyang, Henan. YU HONG'EN/FOR CHINA DAILY

Many shops offer Tang costume rentals and professional makeup services for about 100 yuan ($14). Visitors can don flowing, wide-sleeved robes and delicate hairpins, quickly transforming into Tang nobility as they mingle and stroll through the historical lanes.

At the iconic Yingtian Gate, an imperial entrance once used for state ceremonies, evenings take a lively turn.

By 6 pm, the square erupts into a vibrant dance party, where costumed visitors join performers in traditional dances under the glow of the illuminated gate, creating a festive ambiance.

At 8:30 pm, the action shifts to nearby Jiuzhouchi, a restored imperial garden. Crowds gather for a spectacular show featuring performers scattering petals, performances on horses, acrobatics and a dazzling iron fireworks display — where molten iron is struck to produce showers of sparks against the night sky. This multisensory experience leaves people feeling as if they've stepped into a Tang Dynasty celebration.

For those with a bigger budget, an immersive Tang palace dining experience is also recommended. Prices range from 200 to 600 yuan.

Guests dress in traditional Tang noble attire and enter a meticulously re-created banquet hall, where carved wooden doors and windows blend elegantly with palace lanterns and silk curtains. Servers present carefully restored imperial dishes one after another — grape wine shimmering in colorful glass cups and delicate pastries arranged on silver trays.

On the circular stage, dancers glide to the melody of flutes and strings, their silken sleeves swirling through the air, making guests feel like special invitees to a royal banquet 1,000 years ago.

If Luoyang embodies the royal elegance of the Tang Dynasty, Kaifeng, once the capital city of the Northern Song Dynasty, invites visitors to step into the bustling streets of that time, a city pulsing with life, trade and culture.

At the heart of this experience is Along the River During the Qingming Festival, a masterpiece by Northern Song Dynasty painter Zhang Zeduan. This iconic scroll vividly captures the energy and atmosphere of the capital city during Qingming Festival, portraying landscapes, bridges, markets, boats and a lively cast of everyday people.

What makes Kaifeng even more fascinating is its "cities stacked beneath the city". Over centuries, layers of silt from the Yellow River have buried earlier versions of the city, creating a unique archaeological treasure, one that makes Kaifeng a living timeline of Chinese history.

And at the Millennium City Park, that timeline springs to life. Built as a full-scale re-creation of the famous scroll, this theme park turns visitors into characters from the Northern Song Dynasty.

From the morning opening ceremony, travelers are part of the story, following grain-transport boats under the historical Rainbow Bridge, watching street acrobats in lively performance areas, and tasting authentic Song dishes in a restaurant.

Don't miss the chance to throw the customary embroidered ball for marriage. Visitors might just catch the embroidered ball and become an honorary son-in-law of the Song.

As night falls, the spectacle continues with a breathtaking open-air show featuring over 700 performers. Set on a luminous lake, the production weaves together poetry by master poets, blending music, dance and drama to depict the glory of the era.

From Anyang and Luoyang to Kaifeng, these ancient capitals along the Yellow River form a golden thread through Chinese civilization.

Each city opens a portal to an era that shaped the nation's soul — three temporal coordinates that trace the defining contours of China's cultural legacy.

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