Unearthing a unique snapshot of a regal past
One of the major draws for me when choosing somewhere to visit is my love of history. Since the outbreak of COVID-19, my explorations have mostly been limited to Beijing and the surrounding area, which eventually led me to the Ming Tombs, situated to the northwest of the city. Despite being a lesser-known site when compared to some in Beijing, they have an important historical and archaeological significance in China.
The tombs, a part of the Imperial Tombs of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties world heritage site, were conceived by the third Ming emperor. Based on the philosophy of feng shui, a location was chosen at the base of the mountains in order to be protected from evil spirits and winds coming from the north. The 12 subsequent Ming emperors built their tombs at the same site with large circular walls and square entrances to symbolize the concept that "heaven is round and the Earth is square". Of these 13 tombs, only three are currently open to the public, I chose Dingling, not only for the tomb, but also its turbulent history.
Dingling is the burial place of Emperor Wanli, the 13th emperor of the Ming Dynasty who ruled from 1573 to 1620. The buildings and structures at Dingling are as exquisite as any that Beijing has to offer, but unlike the immaculate restorations within the city, they are a little more rough around the edges. The reconstruction of Dingling isn't to the extent of places you might see inside the city, yet rather than detracting from the experience, the flaking paint and vegetation-covered stonework give it a very different atmosphere to other historical sites. This feeling, coupled with the secluded location of the tombs, throws you back in time. There are no skyscrapers breaking the horizon pulling you back to the present and no city noises to distract you from taking in everything it has to offer.
Yet the real lure of Dingling is that, from 1956-58, the underground sections were excavated, which, for better or worse, allows visitors like myself to go down into the tomb. Making my way down 40 meters of stairs, I reached the underground section, which is comprised of white stone and jade halls, containing marble thrones and replicas of the emperor's coffin among other remarkable relics. Despite the claustrophobic nature of the halls, as a feat of engineering and a unique historical and visual experience, they are absolutely worth a visit.
As impressive as it is to witness, the story surrounding the excavation and its repercussions are just as fascinating. Due to a number of issues, the excavation of the tomb was largely mishandled, leading to the damage and destruction of the bodies of the emperor and empresses and a large part of the more than 3,000 relics that were buried there (replicas and some of those that survived can be seen in exhibitions in the buildings above).
The dig was meant to lead to a further excavation of the Changling tomb, but the failed nature of the experiment led to a new policy not to excavate any historical site except for rescue purposes, and since then, no proposal to open a historical tomb has been approved in the country.
Modern archaeologists around the world have learned from the mistakes made by their predecessors, knowing that there is a fine line to tread between respecting the history of our ancestors and allowing today's public to experience and explore these ancient monuments and relics. There will always be the argument that some things are better left buried, and whether or not that is the case, Dingling offers us a glimpse deep into the life, or afterlife, of a Chinese emperor. And due to the inadequacy of its excavation, it remains one of the few places we have the chance to do so, making it a truly unique experience.
