A dead city's new life

The Gede ruins, buried deep in a lush forest along Kenya's coast, present one of Kenya's greatest mysteries. The relics are the remains of an ancient Swahili town believed to have been founded in the early 12th century.

Walking through the ruins, about 100 kilometers north of Mombasa, one gets the feeling that they hold secrets to a completely different and lesser-known history of Africa. The well-built houses, mosques and palaces that stand today debunk the belief that Africa was a place of "wild "tribes practicing "primitive" lifestyles prior to European colonization.

"The ruins prove that this was home to an advanced civilization before it was abandoned in the 17th century," explains local tour guide Yusuf Yaa.

It is one of the oldest cities established on the Indian Ocean's coast. It once occupied 18 hectares, only roughly 5 of which have been excavated, Yaa says.

The Gede ruins remained unnoticed for centuries until British settlers arrived, and explorer John Kirk rediscovered the city in 1884. Excavations didn't begin until 1948, under the supervision of James Kirkman, a pioneer of Swahili archaeology.

The excavations brought to light a sophisticated city built in coral stone, with streets laid out inside two concentric walls. The town's internal wall protected the elite, and the external bulwark safeguarded the entire precinct.

The buildings that survive today are numerous coral-brick houses, a palace and a mosque.

"However, it is not only the quality of the ruins that amazes visitors but the advanced nature of the settlement," Yaa says.

"Gede was, in many ways, a very advanced city with streets, running water and flushing toilets."

It's believed the rich residents lived within the safer confines of the inner wall, while the middle class dwelled within the outer wall, and peasants and other less-affluent people lived outside the walls.

The discovery of artifacts like Chinese vases and coins as well as Venetian glass proves the citizens of Gede had strong contact and trade with other parts of the world.

The town also hosts a fortress, palaces and tombs built in Swahili-style architecture. The buildings were primarily constructed of plaster, earth and coral.

Residents also dug numerous wells. The 50-meter-deep Well of the Great Mosque near the namesake place of worship is celebrated for its impressive design and was used for ceremonial baths.

The Gede ruins contain many mysteries, but the greatest question puzzling experts is why it was abandoned. According to Yaa, some historians have suggested a lack of water, a conflict or a devastating disease may have prompted the exodus in the 17th century.

"One theory on how Gede was deserted states that unknown invaders destroyed the town. However, historians and archaeologists contend that there is no evidence of battle or disruption," Yaa said.

"Others have suggested that Gede's population, which is estimated to have been around 2,500 people, may have been forced out of the town by the receding waters of the Indian Ocean, which reportedly depleted the available wells, making the town uninhabitable."

Today, the monument is under the care of the National Museums of Kenya.

The forest surrounding the ruins remains a sacred site for traditional rituals and sacrifices for the surrounding community.

Visitors can walk along the nature trail network that hosts diverse wildlife, including 40 species of plants, and leads to lesser ruins throughout the forest. It also features a gallery, displaying items excavated from the site, including old Chinese coins.

Forest birds like Turacos, Malachite Kingfishers, Paradise flycatchers and African Harrier Hawks can be seen from a treetop platform.

The deciduous forest is also home to wildlife like monkeys, duiker antelopes, golden-rumped elephant shrews and galagos.

Gede's ruins remain significant because they bear testimony to the lives and cultures of 12th-century Africa. The site offers insights into the economy, architecture, lifestyles, social structure and other aspects of ancient African civilizations. Its history and architecture also represent the culture of the Swahili communities in East Africa.

The Gede ruins have been nominated for consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The settlement's history is intricately linked to what was happening in other Swahili communities along Africa's eastern coast. Its architecture is similar to the historic cities of Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara in Tanzania, given their common legacies.

And Gede continues to provide prosperity, especially to the locals who earn incomes through tourism, as this dead city takes on new life.