Sharp silhouettes
Modern adaptations
Traditional Chinese garment styles serve as core inspiration to big-time fashion brands like Shanghai Tang, and the cheongsam is no exception. "Key elements such as the mandarin collar, diagonal fastenings, decorative frog buttons and side slits are often showcased on global fashion stages and will remain forever timeless," notes Maggie Wong, head of marketing at Shanghai Tang. "Transcending time and trends, the qipao brings a rich slice of heritage into the modern world of fashion and has proven its classic and lasting allure through time." The brand's recently introduced line of silk-cotton knit qipao pays tribute to heritage while creating a luxe, versatile look for the women of today.
"I'm glad to see how the designers are reviving and transforming the traditional cheongsam into chic wearable modern glamorous fashion statements," says Lee of THEI.
Lindsay Varty, author of Sunset Survivors: Meet the People Keeping Hong Kong's Traditional Industries Alive, points out "A-line skirts made from lighter fabrics to suit Hong Kong's hot summers" might be adapted from the cheongsam.
"The cheongsam is like a canvas on which designers are free to make adaptations, interpretations and presentations," Lam adds.
A traditional cheongsam can take up to six weeks to make and cost upwards of HK$2,000.
"To reduce the production cost and time, fashion brands are simplifying the craftsmanship, structure, and production procedures to create ready-to-wear cheongsams that are more affordable," says Haze Ng, a research assistant professor with the Hong Kong Polytechnic University's Institute of Textiles and Clothing, "Some designers are even adopting computerized patterning technologies to provide tailored-fit and custom-made design service, aiming to attain mass-customization in the cheongsam."
Since 2011, the ITC has been cooperating with the Hong Kong Museum of History, researchers at other Hong Kong universities and institutes, the Intangible Cultural Heritage Office, and the Hong Kong Cheongsam Association on diverse cheongsam-related research and projects.
