Sharp silhouettes

Reaching international audiences

The cheongsam dates back to the Qing Dynasty(1644-1911), and has since been worn by both elite and working classes, the distinctions being in the quality of the material used and/or the intricacy of the design. A number of tailors from Shanghai arrived in Hong Kong in the 1950s, putting their distinctive stamp on the local cheongsam business. In the heyday of Hong Kong cinema, films like The World of Suzie Wong (1960) which reached international audiences helped raise the status of this traditional Chinese dress to that of a timeless fashion emblem.

In subsequent decades, the trend of Hong Kong's well-heeled immigrating to the West, or at the least embracing Western wear, caused a drop in the cheongsam-making business.

"Although the golden age of the cheongsam was gone and the dress ceased to be a mainstream outfit for urban women, it continued to receive support from the privileged minority," says Connie Lam, executive director of the Hong Kong Arts Centre. "Simple designs fell out of vogue; fine materials and exquisite workmanship were pursued; silk fabrics were preferred; trimmings and frog closures once again found favor; 'dry-clean only' became the norm."

Today, cheongsam-clad women are rarely seen on Hong Kong streets, although the traditional outfit continues to make appearances at Chinese weddings and formal events, creating opportunities for the likes of Master Kan.