Asia-Pacific

All about Istanbul

By Mike Peters (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-01-25 09:54

The city has been magical for centuries, straddling the beautiful waterway known as the Bosporus, with one foot in Asia and the other in Europe. "No other city can claim to be a capital of three empires," says Turkey's ambassador to China Murat Salim Esenli, referring to the Eastern Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. The city's 360-degree outlook, and Turkey's long standing as a bridge between cultures, will be in the spotlight this week as leaders from Kabul, Islamabad and Beijing arrive for a series of meetings on regional security ahead of the London conference on Afghanistan on Thursday.

The city's famous architecture is best seen from the waterfront, and cruises on the Bosporus are one of the most popular expeditions for visitors. [Photos courtesy Turkish Embassy]

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CULTURE: A recent excavation for a subway line uncovered a settlement that dates to 7400 BC. That much history gives Istanbul a powerful sense of itself, luring seekers of archaeology, culture and romance. Despite the economic turndown, tourism revenue actually increased 2 percent last year, says Ambassador Esenli. The city prides itself on a skyline that includes the Blue Mosque and the Ayasofia (detail below). "A big modern building would ruin the skyline," says Esenli, though the development pressure from a modern city of 13 million is tremendous. Istanbul is one of three cities designated by the EU as a "cultural capital" for 2010.

SHOPPING: The Sultanahmet district of old Istanbul is the big draw, home of the Grand Bazaar (pictured) with more than 4,000 vendors. Don't spend your whole time there, though - check out the Egyptian market for a spice selection that will send your senses reeling, street vendors for fresh pomegranate juice, and literally thousands of other venues.

Food: Where do you start? The doner kabab is mouth-watering and grilled fresh by veteran street vendors that seem to populate every block of the city. You can take a long walk and dine on the aroma for a while before you actually succumb to the temptation of a kebab, a sandwich or a plate. The desserts are to die for - not just the signature baklava prepared with different nuts and honeys but also Sigara boregi, dondurma (ice cream), revani (a sweet pastry made with semolina), halva, Sutlak (a Turkish style rice pudding) and many others. And then there is Turkish coffee, which you sometimes have to seek out in the most touristy districts where Starbucks and Nescafe - incredibly - lurk.

RUGS: More shopping, but Turkish rugs are a unique part of the Istanbul experience. Not only are there hundreds of carpet shops - and at least as many guys hanging out on the sidewalk hoping to lure passersby to yet another textile showroom - but everybody seems to be selling rugs on the side. Your hotel desk clerk, the waiter at your favorite restaurant, the guy selling roasted chestnuts or theater tickets on the sidewalk, they all have a better deal than the last guy. Dodging rug dealers can turn into an ordeal, but every visitor to this city should stop in at least one showroom for a friendly cup of tea, a quick lesson in the history of rugs and rug-making, and a demonstration of the strength of single vs double-knotting and the durability of these beautifully crafted pieces. Watch as rugs are pulled tight, danced on and (almost) set on fire with lighters to show their toughness. It's a pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

BATHS: Turks have known how to soak up the steam for centuries, and few tourists can resist checking out an authentic Turkish bath. Guidebooks and hotel concierges can help avoid the seedy ones. The Hamam experience, as the Turkish bath is known locally, starts with relaxing in "the warm room", heated by a continuous flow of hot, dry air prompting the bather to perspire freely. Next: An even hotter room before bathers go on to spalsh themselves with cold water. After a full body wash and a massage, bathers relax for a while in "the cooling-room".