Lovers of fine coffee have reason to rejoice. Although it is not impossible to find a rich shot of espresso, a bag of quality, imported beans, or a creamy, frothy cappuccino in Beijing, the choices are certainly somewhat limited.

The latest addition to the capital's cafe scene is one of the most expensive varietals in the world, a bean treasured for its distinctive flavour. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is prized throughout the world for its taste and aroma. Its balanced taste is rich and sweet, yet slightly acidic.

"(It's) the world's best coffee," says G Anthony Hylton, chairman of the Jamaica Coffee Export Association (JCEA). Jamaican companies have been selling the beans directly on the Chinese market since November. Blue Mountain coffee was previously only indirectly exported to the Chinese mainland from neighbouring markets such as Japan and Hong Kong, says Hylton. He adds that most Blue Mountain coffee sold in China is not real.

Hylton says the Jamaican Government has strict regulations on Blue Mountain coffee, which must be grown in a specific, designated area in the country's Blue Mountain range. The Coffee Industry Board of Jamaica tests coffee to make sure it meets all market requirements before it is certified.

Jamaica's 16 coffee companies produced 2,000 metric tons of Blue Mountain a year before Hurricane Ivan in 2004. The storm reduced production by about 15 per cent. The industry is expected to recover within four to five years.

About 85 per cent of all Blue Mountain coffee is sold to Japan, with approximately 10 per cent going to Europe and the United States, and the other 5 per cent to other markets, JCEA statistics show.

"We are seeking a process of market diversification," says Norman W Grant, president of the Jamaica Agricultural Society and chief executive officer of Jamaica's oldest coffee company, Mavis Bank Coffee Factory Ltd (MBCF).

Grant says that his company has transported the first 20-foot container load of its Jablum brand Blue Mountain coffee to China.

"We launched our products in Beijing's Sheraton Great Wall Hotel in November," he says.

The company is planning to offer the expensive coffee in four or five star hotels, high-end supermarkets such as Lufthansa Friendship Store and Scitech, and private clubs.

"It is a strategy to look into this new market," Grant says. "Over the next three years, we project we can increase the demand for valued-added coffee products in this new market by US$3 million."

Grant also expects the increasing demand to encourage farmers to expand their coffee plantations.

Another leading Jamaican coffee company, Wallenford Coffee Co, also plans to introduce its Wallenford Blue Mountain coffee in China.

"Everything in the market indicates interest," says Hylton, who is chairman of Wallenford. "We are going to start in China."

The company is currently looking for a good agent for its business in China, and is preparing market promotions in print media, radio and television.

Hylton says China could be consuming up to 25 per cent of the total volume of Blue Mountain coffee within about 10 years.

"I do not believe Jamaican production will be able to supply enough coffee to Chinese consumers," Hylton says.

He describes Blue Mountain coffee as a luxury product that will not compete with other coffee varieties in quantity, but in quality.

"We are targeting high-end consumers," Hylton says.

It will take a long time for the company to take a share of the huge Chinese market.

"It could take two or three years to fight counterfeit products in the Chinese market, educate consumers and establish distribution channels," he says.

Globalization has popularized the beverage on the mainland, but few Chinese consumers would be able to recognize fine coffee.

"We are here not only in the business of marketing coffee. We are attempting to promote a culture of drinking fine coffee, and a lifestyle," Grant says.

Michael Chen, general manager of Jipinlan Trading Inc, MBCF's partner, describes Blue Mountain coffee as a symbol of grace and nobility, and a representation of a refined lifestyle.

Jamaica started growing coffee in 1720, and it has since become the country's second largest agricultural export after sugar.

Coffee beans take longer to mature in the high altitudes and cool climate of the mountainous parts of the island. The beans take up to 10 months before they can be harvested, which is twice as long as most coffee growing regions.

Many believe this gives the rich soil time to yield a better, smoother coffee with a superior flavour and aroma.

(China Daily 01/23/2006 page3)