'Real people' transition in Beijing's old hutongs

(Agencies)
Updated: 2008-08-14 09:55

An alleyway formed by lines from traditional courtyards lead to the entrance of a hutong. [Agencies]

After lunch, Liu "takes a little rest," watches some television, studies her Bible and then returns to the street.

Before moving to the hutong 10 years ago, Liu, dressed in a polo shirt advertising Yanjing beer, lived in one of Beijing's ubiquitous high rises, the city's new generation of residential neighborhoods.

"If you live there, you feel isolated," she said.

"Everything is great here. I'm not lacking anything. Every day passes very well."

As simple as hutong life appears to be among the rickshaws, scooters and caged songbirds, there are complex forces at play that make this a life in transition.

'It will be better'

De Jiang, 51, has been living and working in the hutong all of his life. Sipping tea at a table outside his small restaurant, De has seen and felt the change.

In the ancient city that takes pride in its cuisine, a pizza restaurant moved in just up the alley from De's place. Ever since, he has been battling for his share of customers, and mostly losing.

He said tourists are not comfortable sampling the traditional Beijing fare served up at his Lao Yu Hutong. Many would rather have pizza.

But De is not giving up. Like Liu, he enjoys it here.

"Beijing will develop, but the hutongs will still be here."

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