Wild seabass with artichokes, roasted peppers, riso nero and dates. Provided to China Daily

Steamed cheong fun rolled with crispy rice nest and seafood. Provided to China Daily

Hong Kong

Rebecca Lo discovers a dim sum bar that combines the best of traditional Cantonese yum cha with fusion creations.

Going for dim sum in Hong Kong is a family ritual that is observed every weekend faithfully. Folks choose either bright, boisterous teahouses and order steamed dumplings, congee and fried noodles to accompany the morning paper; or they head to a fancy hotel where they get essentially the same dishes except with fancier ingredients and service.

For those who crave dim sum but want to enjoy it in casual, contemporary surrounds as a break from shopping or after a movie, there is finally a place where they can indulge: Dim Sum Bar.

The brainchild of Caf Deco Group's CEO Martin Allies, Dim Sum Bar is the group's first Chinese outlet. Like its other restaurants, the location was critical. Dim Sum Bar is right beside Golden Gateway Multiplex cinemas, across from busy Harbour City shopping mall and a stone's throw away from the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal.

Dim Sum Bar promotes the concept that fresh made-to-order dim sum can be enjoyed at any time of the day - even alone. It also updates traditional dishes with ingredients normally associated with Western cuisine, such as black truffles, foie gras and chocolate, in recognition of the city's East meets West heritage.

Walking into Dim Sum Bar, I am immediately struck by its airy, open ambience - it is more like a modern restaurant than a yum cha hall. A large hexagonal lantern suspended above the main dining area sets the tone: The lamp is decidedly modern while at the time very Chinese.

Throughout the space, stations such as the noodle making area contain functional stainless steel counters and lots of storage to prevent clutter. Bamboo steamers are a design motif used as decorative wall hangings and as lights in the private dining room.

We started off with a trio of dishes that each had a slight fusion twist. Crispy shrimp spring rolls with cheese cream were pleasantly crunchy with a hint of cheese to round out the firm shrimp. Deep fried dumplings with foie gras and shrimp were wrapped in a light and deliciously crispy batter faintly perfumed with goose liver. And wontons with minced pork and foie gras in soup featured the thinnest of pastries in a soup worth slurping.

My favorite dish, though, was king's dumpling in lobster bisque. Steamed har gow served in soup, it was a perfect medley of deeply savory bisque with a rich lobster taste that envelops the dumpling, seeping into every bite. The dusting of oregano and other spices was a novel icing on the cake.

Another dish that worked well was baked abalone and chicken pastry. The abalone was expertly braised and smothered in a brown sauce; it is nestled in an oval shaped buttery pastry with a hint of sweetness that held up brilliantly with every bite.

Baked barbecued pork buns burst with succulent meat in a crisp shell that is as springy as marshmallows. And steamed cheong fun rolled with crispy rice nest and seafood has the same look and texture of you tiao wrapped in noodle, but is actually made with Vietnamese crispy rice.

A light dessert of papaya and almond pudding is served up to resemble century eggs, and made to be eaten with your fingers.

The best part about Dim Sum Bar is that everything is served in small portions, which make them great for snacks or sharing a multitude of dishes. And the fusion aspect of the dishes is familiar enough so that you don't feel like you've just participated in the chef's science experiment.

Lunch for hungry people costs around $100 to $150 per person - a bit more if you go for foie gras, abalone and other luxe ingredients.

You can contact the writer at sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 09/25/2011 page13)