Where's the beef? It's no mystery
By Donna Mah ( (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-11-29 09:10
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Hong Kong
Some books tell you what sort of food you should eat, based on your blood type. I once found out I am supposed to be vegetarian, a fact I found difficult to swallow, especially after I tasted my first bowl of beef brisket in clear broth at Kau Kee on Gough Street. I remember thinking: "This is one of those things I would find very hard to give up."
In the initial stage of my relationship with Kau Kee and its beef brisket, I was sometimes side-tracked by the curry beef brisket and tendon with noodles, but I always went back to the beef brisket in clear broth. I used to eat here three times a week. That's a lot considering I lived and worked nowhere near the place.
The broth at Kau Kee can be a little oily, so I always order mine without oil. Yes, you can actually order it this way, but they put their foot down when it comes to rice noodles. They will only sell rice vermicelli after they have sold out the fresh, flat rice noodles. My personal favorite is the e-fu noodles, followed closely by the flat rice noodles. I also like to dip the pieces of beef in the spicy chili sauce.
Kau Kee is closed on Sundays and public holidays, and service is known to be a bit surly.
It also closes in the afternoon and only operates during lunch and dinner hours, when there is usually a queue outside the shop even before it opens. You'll find yourself sharing a table, more often than not, but it all adds to the experience.
For a fix of beef brisket closer to home, I like to visit Sister Wah or Tai Lee on Electric Road in Tin Hau.
Years ago, there was only Tai Lee, but Sister Wah left Tai Lee and opened her own shop right next door. I guess there's enough business in this neighborhood to support both shops since they always seem to be equally busy.
The soup at both Sister Wah and Tai Lee is not as full-bodied as the broth at Kau Kee, but both stores manage to get wonderful flavor in. The beef usually has good texture and isn't too fatty. However, some people prefer their beef brisket more fatty and order it that way.
Further east on Hong Kong Island is On Lee in Shaukeiwan. It is known not only for beef brisket, but also for its fish paste.
The beef brisket is very tender and both soup and noodles are just right - not too soft, and not too salty.
Sometimes, all it takes is a steaming hot bowl of beef brisket with noodles in clear broth to make a gourmet's day, and here, there are plenty of choices.