Spice Circle

By Jeremy Webb (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2009-01-15 11:30

One of the things I sometimes crave in China is “proper Chinese food”. Likewise, when in India, I looked forward to returning home for a “proper curry”. I love Chinese food in China and I loved Indian food in India. However, and this is quite an admission for a food critic, I often long for the “proper” British adulterations of Asian cuisine, however improper they may be. Beijing’s newest Indian restaurant, Spice Circle, appeals to the part of me that values authentic cuisine, and the slightly shameful part of me that hankers after the Anglicised Asian food that I was brought up on.

Buried a couple of flights of stairs below Financial Street, screens showing Bollywood music videos take the place of windows. However, despite being subterranean, the sub continental restaurant, with its smart décor, immaculate tableware is a fine place to eat.

Set in a simple mirrored room, the manager grumbles something to me about the fact he is unable to hire Indian waiters. He need not worry. As far as I can see, the Chinese staff speaks passable English and is starting to get the hang of the hard-to-pronounce menu; one waitress even impresses me by asking, “Is your beer cold enough sir?”

The first to our table was a mixture of three dishes from the restaurant’s own tandoor oven: a large chunk of mackerel, a couple of pieces of dark lamb, and some very tender chicken. All were satisfyingly large chunks of boneless flesh that unlike some tandoori food, were not too dry.

The next two dishes show how well vegetarians are catered for at Spice Circle. The palak paneer – bright green liquidised spinach and suitably resistant chunks of the subcontinent’s answer to cottage cheese - was gorgeous. Also, when mopped up by a piece of naan, the lentil dal is a dish that should not be overlooked, even by meat eaters.

Next were two meat curries - a lamb rogan josh and a butter chicken. Although not the best quality meat I have had, the flavours of the two dishes were strong and the chefs had not overdone any of the spices.

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