Seafood soup, stew, or a combination of both can be a winner at anytime of the year. This week I found frozen mussels from Chile when shopping, and with sun on one hand and rain on the other, it seems to be the weather for Mediterranean fish stew.

Start by making a fish stock from small fish de-gutted or fish heads and bones. I find packets of fish off-cuts, such as salmon heads and bones selling for around HK$40, ideal for making a base broth. Wash the fish carefully, scrape a knife along the surface to loosen any scales, wash them off. Immerse the off-cuts in 32 fl.ozs (2 pints) of water along with 3 cloves of crushed garlic, 5 crushed peppercorns and 1 medium-sized onion chopped finely, and stew for 15 to 16 minutes - do not overcook.

Remove the bones to a plate and keep all the liquid. With 2 forks pick through the bones and head to remove any meat and put this fish meat aside, cover and keep. Return the bones/skin to the fish liquid in the pan and boil gently for another 10 minutes. Then pass this soupy liquid through a sieve set with a muslin cloth, or an opened-out soup bag to separate any scales or bones. This gives you a fish soup base from which you can make fish or seafood soups, stews, sauces and casseroles.

Mussel-fish soup/stew

To the soup base, add a good pinch of saffron threads, 3 juniper seeds crushed (or 1 shot of Gin), a 2-inch piece of cinnamon stick, 3 cloves and 1 stick of celery chopped. Let this soup simmer while you wash and cut up lb to 1 lb of fish per person, fish such as Tilapia or the more expensive Halibut into cubes, and add to the stew and cook for 3 to 5 minutes - the fish will turn opaque when it's cooked - don't overcook. Rinse the frozen mussels gently, add them to the soup and allow to warm through for 2 minutes before serving the stew in bowls with chunks of French bread.

To make a bigger, richer version when having guests, prepare the basic soup as above (double the quantity if for 6 guests) and add 3 large tomatoes, 1 white onion and a handful of celery, 3 garlic cloves, 1 to 2 lbs haddock, cod or halibut fillet cut into cubes. Fry the garlic, finely chopped celery and onions in 2 tbsp. olive oil for 3 minutes, add the chopped tomatoes, 2 Bay leaves, garlic and 1 tspn. Spanish pimenton (paprika), stir well and cook for 3 minutes. Add the fish and the soup, stir and add other seafood like clams or shrimps, check the salt and pepper to adjust to taste, you can add a fish stock cube if necessary.

If you like, you may add one glass of white wine to the stew - a dry white wine such as Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc or an un-oaked Chardonnay. You can add the fish meat and wine at the same time, lower the heat, and let it all simmer uncovered over a low heat for 5 to 6 minutes before serving with bread, or boiled potatoes. Chilled, a glass of the white wine can be served alongside the stew.

Tip: If using fresh mussels, wash them well and discard any shells that do not open after the cooking time. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. The mussels are salty so the soup may not need additional condiments. Garnish with fresh parsley or spring onions.

For China Daily

(HK Edition 09/26/2014 page7)