There are pioneering winemakers in Victoria, Australia, who are changing the focus of wine styles and bringing new varietals to the region, says Maggie Beale.

Australian winemakers have come to realize that their individual wine regions must have their own style and consistency, and this has given rise to a new breed of pioneers. Willing to experiment, despite frustrations and sometimes with unrewarding results, they are determined to try it anyway; these enterprising people are the stuff that fortitude is made of - and the wines are proof that it works.

Typical of these proponents of new wine styles and rare grape varietals are Dr. Robert Ippaso, the founder of the Lost Valley winery and his winemaker Alex White. Situated in Central Victoria's High Country in the Upper Goulburn, among huge, 450-metre majestic boulders of pink granite, the property has stunning views of Mount Buller and was called the "Valley of the Thousand Hills" by its indigenous aboriginal inhabitants. It is also reminiscent of Dr Ippaso's birthplace high in the Swiss-Italian Alps where the Cortese grape flourishes.

Grown at high altitude, the wines are hand-pruned and handpicked, and the winery makes good use of solar energy and wind power rather than electricity. It follows that the wines will reflect this pristine environment and it shows in Merlots that are exquisitely plummy or truffle chocolate-y, deeply aromatic Shiraz that goes on forever, crisp Sauvignon Blanc and an exquisite Cortese to rival the best Italy has to offer.

Served to First Class passengers on Qantas Airways, the aromatic Lost Valley Cortese 2005 is a beautifully balanced white made from an Italian grape never before grown in Australia. I recently tried this wine with steamed crab and a seafood platter and found it was an excellent match. The wine is lightly spritzy and golden yellow with crisp, balanced flavors of sun-ripened pears and passion fruit with a mellow spicy note that becomes silkily honeyed with age. With Alc 14 percent, it has cellaring potential of up to 10 years, so buying this vintage now means getting it in prime development stage. Don't be put off by the screwcap closure - it's an asset to maintain the quality of this white wine, and easier than wielding a corkscrew for some.

The reds are also of the same high caliber: Lost Valley Thousand Hills Shiraz 2004 is soft but full on the palate, with dark cherries and plums, spice and subtle liquorice flavors. It is well balanced with a warm bouquet of spice and hedgerow berries. The palate shows the very best of cool-climate Shiraz characters that are both elegant and subtle.

Vines at Lost Valley vineyard are planted on approximately 15 acres of natural amphitheaters with their own unique red clay/granite sand soil and micro-climate. Everything at the winery is done simply and as naturally as possible, allowing the cool-grown fruit center stage. In keeping with the clean alpine feel of Lost Valley, there's purity and freshness to the wines.

The Lost Valley Hazy Mountain Merlot 2004 has wonderful depth of color, a luscious crimson with strong notes of purple. Elegant with perfectly ripened fruit and balanced oak, its texture on the palate is so smoothly concentrated you can chew it. Lots of red berry fruit, hints of chocolate, spearmint and pepper, it is a wine of great structure, balance and a long lingering finish. At Alc 14 percent, this is a big wine, so to get the best of it let it breathe (or decant) for 20 minutes or so before serving. It will keep well for up to 15 years.

Whilet the entire annual production from both Lost Valley and their Mount Buller 25 acres of vineyards averages merely 5,000 cases for all four varietals, the wine's inherent quality makes them high on my list of "must drink", it also means you have to be quick to get them while you can.

In Hong Kong Lost Valley premium wines are available in CitySuper and Jusco (Tseung Kwan O).

(HK Edition 01/16/2010 page3)