Since the boom that has been occurring in Macao, the fine-dining industry has been equally healthy, with many overseas gourmet giants opening outposts in new casinos in town.

But what if visitors and gamblers have had an overdose of foie gras and fancy Japanese food? Where can they turn to for a casual, yet memorable, dining experience in Macao? The answer lies at the Noodle and Congee Corner at the Grand Lisboa Hotel.

To get to this unassuming noodle joint, one has to do a bit of a hunt given the maze-like interior of the hotel, but the destination is well worth the search. Tucked away in a corner overlooking more gambling tables, the Noodle and Congee Corner is a sleek and modern version of the traditional noodle joint. If you're expecting a simple noodle restaurant, only good for a quick bite, then you are highly mistaken and am in for a pleasant surprise.

On first encounter, the dcor of this restaurant should give diners a clue that this is not the usual chaotic old style noodle establishment. Space is expansive and tables are placed at a good distance from each other. Modern dark wood covers most of the surface areas, while muted mellow lighting is emitted from the lattice like screens on the walls, a look back into traditional Chinese screen designs.

It would seem that the theme of re-inventing old Chinese classics into a new and better fit for the modern taste is not only applied to the design of this restaurant, as this extends to the dining concept here at Noodle and Congee Corner. Choices are encouraged here and mix and match is the name of the game. The specialty of the house, noodles, is offered up in a variety of styles. Diners will get the chance to pick their preferred noodle, ranging from Jian Dao Mian (Scissors Cut Noodles) to Dao Xiao Mian (Knife Sliced Noodles), then a pick from soup base choices, and finally a full page of meat toppings to ponder over.

Diners should note that the type of noodles they choose will affect the noodle cooking performance they will witness subsequently. The noodle chef, working away behind the glass window, is highly visible to the dining audience and will start preparing your noodle as a performance act of its own. Watch in awe as the chef expertly shaves away at the pasta dough, placed in a hat on his head, and drops the resulting noodles into the boiling cauldron in front of him. Definitely not something you see at your everyday noodle joint.

Even an order of a cup of Chinese tea will result in an unexpected surprise performance. Your tea will arrive along with your tea server, who will tip out shooting boiling water from a long spouted tea pot, a nice little tea ceremony before your meal begins. Obviously, ordering noodles are a must here, but it is also imperative to indulge in the Fresh Water Crab Congee, another Macao specialty. The crab comes served up on a separate plate, canceling out the need to pick around in the congee, a definite plus.

Northern style noodles and dishes are big here; however, Cantonese noodles and congee dishes are also available. Expect mainstream choices, such as Congee with Thousand Year Old Eggs or with Sliced Abalone and Chicken. Main entrees include a good selection of flavorful stir fried dishes, Stir Fried Diced Beef Fillet with Dried Chili, Pan Fried Pork Pie with Coriander, and Cooked Silver Cod in Oil and Yellow Bean Paste, an ideal balance to the congee. Last but not least, save room for dessert as ample choices seems to be the focus here.

Definitely cheap and cheerful, this not-so-little corner promises and delivers much. Service is attentive given that the place was not packed on the day of our visit. Spacious, clean, unpretentious, aesthetically-pleasing, stomach-satisfying, with a nice injection of fun performance art, Noodle and Congee Corner is a breath of fresh air amongst the numerous new restaurants springing up in Macao. Best of all, this noodle joint opens into the wee hours of the night, a perfect respite for gamblers looking for a shot of new energy.

(HK Edition 11/12/2008 page4)