Novel-themed meal a real dream

By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-06-19 10:12

Whether talking about motion pictures or literary classics, popular works of fiction lend their themes to the dining table just as easily.

Films such as "Eat Drink Man Woman" and "Chocolat" have made mouths water in the picture houses, while Shakespearian feasts have also been equally lavish and extravagant.

In a country where people love food as much as the next guy, it is no surprise that local novels have featured gastronome as prominently as in the West.

The Westin Bund Center Shanghai has appreciated this rich vein of material, and has gotten in on the act as well. Through June 29, the fifth floor Asian restaurant EEST - The Crystal Garden will feature a set menu and a la carte dishes inspired by the renowned masterpiece "The Dream of Red Mansions."

Often considered the zenith of Chinese classical fiction, the novel has been translated into 20 different languages, either abridged or in its entirety. Chinese chef Carson Xiao has devoted himself entirely to the Cao Xueqin novel for a considerable amount of time, and has conjured some works of art himself.

"It's taken us two, three months to get this menu together," the Guangzhou native said. "I was always thinking about it, which characters to feature, what dishes could be prepared. I even started dreaming about it."

Newly-appointed Executive Chef Luke Elder was impressed by his lad's efforts, most of which took place before he joined the Bund Center property. "They've kept things simple and focused on three things," the Australian said. "There's the flavor, which you taste. There's the quality of the dish which you can obviously see, and there's also freshness of ingredients."

Fans of the novel should be in for a treat, as the more memorable characters immortalized by the Nanjing author's 18th century tome are featured prominently during the promotion. Those unfamiliar with the acclaimed work have naught to fear as Singaporean restaurant manager Pauline Tan is on hand to vividly recount the tale and explain the significance of the dishes in English.

The double-boiled shark's fin with papaya sauce (288 yuan/US$37.77) is based on the maiden Xue Baochai. Known for her virtue and her penchant for carrying a golden locket and jade, the orange sauce and gleaming strands of fibrous fin deliver purity and wonderfully expansive papaya richness to do her name justice.

Gifted painter Jia Xichun lends herself to a dish of stir-fried scallops and crabmeat with fish roe (88 yuan). The tobiko had such lovely texture, as did the egg white mixed with crustacean. The scallops were the highlight of the dish, large, succulent and lightly fried.

Not all the items on the menu are meat, however. Minor character Qiao Jie was portrayed in the book humbly, so it made sense that a vegetarian mock meat dish was served in her name. The marinated mushroom wrapped with bean curd skin alludes to her birth in prison after her family had been thrown behind bars.

To round up the meal, dessert is served in memory of the mysterious Qin Keqing. The story goes that she appeared in another character's dream suggesting that she buy farm land.

The folks at EEST have interpreted to plate steamed red date cake with honey. Just sweet enough with a firm texture, this was a fitting end to the meal.

The restaurant is also serving a 388 yuan set menu depicting different characters and different aspects of the story. It is obvious that the menu has been well-thought out, and the dining experience is bound to put a smile on your lips with each tale.

The Crystal Garden
Address: 88 Henan Zhonglu
Tel: 021-63351888



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