GUANGZHOU: Take an evening walk down the restaurant district in Huifu Donglu,
near Guangzhou's famed shopping mecca Beijing Road, and one thing you'll notice
immediately is the diversity of the fare on offer.
 Visitors look at a range of Cantonese dishes on display at an
international food show in this file photo. [China Daily]

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While local Chinese eateries
continue to do good business, Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian restaurants next
door are packed to the rafters.
After years of eating their native Cantonese food, Guangzhou locals are
flocking to Southeast Asian restaurants drawn by the promise of new and exciting
flavors like chili, peppers and terasi (shrimp paste).
"Customers are tired of eating the same thing all the time and want something
new," says Andy Somchai Cutjapun, a Thai native and head chef at Golden Dragon,
which serves dozens of tables each night at its two- storey location.
The veteran chef attributes the growing popularity to his staying true to
original Thai recipes rather than trying to cater too much to local tastes.
"Local Chinese cannot eat traditional Thai food, which is extremely hot, so
we make it less spicy to suit their tastes. But at all times, the restaurant
serves authentic Thai food using authentic ingredients."
The most popular dishes at the restaurant are charcoal grilled Japanese
mackerel and chillied seafish, the chef says.
The same desire to stick to original recipes is at work at nearby Indonesian
restaurant Pandan.
"We only serve food prepared using authentic recipes," manager So Siuwai says
when explaining why his 70-seat restaurant serving delicacies like king garlic
prawns and nasi goring (fried rice) is filled on a nightly basis.
"Japanese and foreign patrons seem to handle the spicy concoctions easily,
locals prefer simpler, cleaner tastes," said CD, the restaurant's head chef.
Unusually, half of the eight cooking staff at Pandan are Indonesian
housewives, most with children, rather than professional chefs, as the aim is to
deliver the authentic homecooking experience desired by management.
Since "many customers do not know how to order Indonesian food", eating at
Pandan is an education, So says.
So far, patrons have embraced such novel ideas as eating steamed rice with
forks or even their hands, as they scoop up food from banana leaf placemats as
is done in Indonesia.
Underpinning the desire to try new things is a strong economy creating
greater disposable incomes, So says.
"Now people have more money, they can afford to eat out more often, and they
want to try something new and exciting. Also, more people are traveling overseas
to other countries in Asia. They will go to Thailand, or Vietnam or Indonesia,
and try the food there and find they like it.
"When they come home, they look for the same kind of foods here," So says.
Nowhere testifies to this new-found spirit of culinary adventure than Tiger
Prawn, a Vietnamese restaurant that is the busiest place on Huifu Donglu.
Every night the 200-seat restaurant is full and between 50 and 100 people
queue up waiting for a table with mouths watering as the smell of pan-fried
shrimp wafts out of the kitchen.
Many people think Vietnam's cuisine is simple, but according to Wayne Chan,
an overseas Chinese from Australia who co-owns the restaurant with his
Vietnamese wife and head chef and trainer, Eunie, this couldn't be further from
the truth.
"Vietnamese food actually has a rich cultural past," he says.
As a former French colony, "Vietnam was exposed to many international
influences and this influenced the development of our cuisine. Also, its
proximity to other Southeast Asian countries means that our food has been
infused with these other flavors and this makes it very unique".
"I think this is why our food is so popular with locals."
But perhaps Tiger Prawn's biggest draw is its affordable menu, as great
effort is made to keep prices as low as possible.
"Where else in Guangzhou, can you get such tasty, authentic Vietnamese food
at fast food prices?" he says.