As a child in England, a land renowned for plain over-boiled vegetables, I was uninspired by the mound of insipid cabbage alongside a grilled pork chop and some boiled potatoes that was served weekly. With exposure to more involved cooking techniques (sorry mother), complementary ingredients and different varieties, cabbage has become a firm favorite. This is fortunate, since there is an awful lot of the stuff here in China.
Cultivation of cabbages in China is thought to have originated over 6,000 years ago. Chinese cabbage (Brassica Rapa) comes from a different family to cabbages traditionally grown in the West, (Brassica Oleracae) and can be divided into two varieties.
Brassica Pekinensis or Napa cabbage (da bai cai) are the sizeable pale green cabbages likely to be occupying space under the windows down your street at the moment. These hardy vegetables can survive the long, cold Beijing winter and were traditionally hoarded at this time of year along with onions and potatoes, a custom that seemingly remains. Napa cabbage is typically used in simple stock soups and hot pots (huo guo) where it absorbs the flavors of the broth. It is also served plain stir fried, often with a pinch of chili (chao bai cai).
The Chinese employ several ways of further extending the shelf life of the Napa cabbage. You can often find rows of cabbage leaves drying on roofs, along gutters, even draped over bicycles. These are then rehydrated as required throughout the winter for use in soup and such likes.
Although most of us would assume Sauerkraut to be a German creation, its origins, like so many things, lie in China. Apparently the laborers building the Great Wall over 2,000 years ago ate substantial amounts of suan cai (sour cabbage), or Chinese sauerkraut. The technique of making suan cai was later brought to Europe and adopted by the Germans. Suan cai is still popular in China, especially in the Northeast region where it is commonly used in dumplings along with pork. In other areas such as Xinjiang, it is used as a topping for noodle dishes.
The other Chinese cabbage is Brassica Chinensis or pak choi (derived from the Cantonese), xiao bai cai in Chinese. This petite cabbage has emerald green leaves that are particularly high in vitamin A. Again it is used in soups with other ingredients such as xiao bai cai yang rou wan zi tang - pak choi with lamb meat balls or stir fried.
All cabbage varieties are rich in vitamin C, which is crucial to the immune system and an important component of collagen in the skin. A daily ration of preserved cabbage used to be fed to Dutch sailors during exploration voyages to prevent them from getting scurvy. Like all vegetables in the Brassica family, when the leaves of cabbage are damaged (ie cut with a knife) an enzyme is released which produces beneficial glucosinolates. These chemicals have been shown to have potent anti-cancer properties, protecting DNA from mutations that can lead to cancer. Unfortunately both vitamin C and the glucosinolates are destroyed by lengthy cooking, so cabbage is best eaten raw, briefly steamed or stir-fried, or preserved.
Try making coleslaw with finely shredded Napa and red cabbage, with grated carrot and apple mixed with some natural unsweetened yoghurt, a splash of olive oil and some black sesame seeds. For a really simple supper, fry a finely chopped clove of garlic in a little olive oil, and then add sliced bacon or pancetta for a few minutes. Remove the stalk from about five or six Napa cabbage leaves and cut the leaves into wide ribbons (the stalks make the dish too watery), add to the pan with some black pepper and a teaspoon of caraway seeds. Stir-fry briefly and serve with mashed potato or slices of bread and butter if you're really short on time.
This nutrition-related column is written by Nina Lenton, a qualified dietitian living in Beijing and working at Bayley and Jackson Medical Center. Contact her at nina.lenton@ikang.com
(China Daily 12/05/2007 page14)
