Teahouses turn nostalgia temples

The rhythmic beat of drums and the fragrant steam of poured tea rise above the rice paddies in Kaihui township, embraced by the heady sound of laughter and people having a good time. This is the atmosphere at the First Love Teahouse, what was supposed to be a quiet slice of nostalgia on the outskirts of Changsha, capital of Hunan province, but what has become a sensation for its queuing clientele.

At lunchtime on an ordinary weekday, the halls and private rooms of the teahouse bustle with guests, many of whom have driven for over an hour from downtown Changsha.

What has hooked so many guests is the traditional and nostalgic atmosphere of the teahouse. Its decor all stems from a bygone era, a time when farming and family were the core of daily life. The tea, local specialties and lively performances have kept guests coming back for more despite the teahouse only opening in September. Huagu Opera, or flower-drum opera, is a particular favorite when it hits the hall's main stage.

"The dishes, the performance, the culture ... everything feels like from our childhood," said one of the guests who grew up in the region.

The teahouse is a repurposed building from a rural supply and marketing cooperative, and so it perfectly encapsulates that rural feel. Dubbed "a teahouse grown on the farmland", its design is deeply rooted in the agrarian culture back in the 1980s. More than 600 vintage objects donated by local villagers are on display inside and out, such as aluminium water kettles, enamel tea mugs and bamboo baskets, turning the space into what its founder calls a "rural cultural living room".