Domestic truffles give the distinctive smell of international success

KUNMING — Ms Sun, who runs a Western restaurant in Shanghai, recently placed an order for a batch of fresh Yunnan truffles, planning to launch a limited, seasonal menu. In Guangzhou, Guangdong province, Mr Chen purchased five cans of truffle sauce during an e-commerce promotion and left the comment,"Absolutely delicious!"

These goods came from Yongren county, Chuxiong Yi autonomous prefecture, in Southwest China's Yunnan province.

Truffles were once synonymous with imported European luxury and were an extravagant treat enjoyed only by a few. Today, it is a different story. Truffles cultivated in Yunnan now supply the mainstream Chinese market and are delivered overseas by air, completing their journey from exotic imports to homegrown Chinese treasures.

As truffles grow in popularity among Chinese consumers and spawn a range of derivative products, Yunnan is actively building an integrated industry chain spanning picking, processing, sales, and product innovation.

At 7 am, villager Li Yongxiu has already started working with a bamboo basket and a small rake to harvest black truffles deep in the forest. "We didn't realize the value of truffles until recently," Li says, noting that mature truffles emit a distinctive scent that often lures animals that dig them out.

With over 2,800 hours of annual sunshine and nearly 75 percent forest coverage, Yongren county provides ideal growing conditions for truffles. The county produces about 50 metric tons of truffles annually, contributing a significant share to China's total output.

Premium truffles from Yongren now fetch up to 850 yuan ($120) per kilogram, and picking truffles has become a key source of additional income for local farmers. Li can earn more than 4,000 yuan during each harvesting season, while skilled pickers can make an extra 10,000 yuan or more.

To protect this unique resource, Yongren county has designated over 50,000 mu (3,333 hectares) to wild mushroom conservation and propagation bases, and bans truffle picking from March 1 to Oct 31 to ensure better protection and quality, according to Wang Jianbiao, deputy chief of the county's forestry and grassland administration.

In major producing areas, more than two training sessions are held annually to teach farmers how to identify mature truffles and adopt proper picking methods.

To extend the industry chain and increase added value, local businesses have developed processed products such as canned truffles, truffle mooncakes and truffle chocolate.

"Processing turns truffles into affordable delicacies for ordinary families," says Lei Jinyu, manager of Yongren Yesenda Mushroom Co.

Established in 2014, the company has developed a series of truffle products, boosting its output value to over 40 million yuan in 2024, doubling the figure from the days when it sold only raw truffles.

A breakthrough in preservation technology has extended the shelf life of fresh truffles from 20 to 45 days, enabling overseas sales. Lei adds that the company's products are exported to France, Germany, the United Arab Emirates, and other countries.

Statistics show that China's truffle exports grew markedly to approximately 45.4 tons in 2024. In 2023, China's export volume had already accounted for nearly one-third of the global truffle trade.

With improved ecological conditions, truffle-producing areas in China are expanding. Zhao Yongchang, a researcher at the Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences, notes that, in addition to traditional production areas such as Yunnan and Sichuan, truffles are also produced in the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei region, Inner Mongolia, and Northeast China, further boosting the country's truffle output.

Zhao acknowledges that due to species differences and insufficient brand accumulation, domestic truffles still have a price gap compared with European truffles. However, with technological advances and brand-building, Chinese truffles are expected to shine brighter in the global market.

Xinhua