Local brands go premium on down fashion

The premium downwear market is seeing a wave of innovation and upmarket transformation, with local and international brands rapidly evolving to capture new consumer demand shaped by lifestyle diversification and the rise of "pan-outdoor" fashion.

Two major domestic players, Guvet and Bosideng, are taking bold steps to redefine the high-end downwear segment through design innovation, cultural heritage and international collaboration.

On Oct 15, Chinese high-end goose down brand Guvet officially launched its Black Gold Dragon Brocade intangible cultural heritage yunjin series, which went viral immediately upon release. Multiple styles sold out within days, and the collection even broke into Weibo's top 10 trending searches during the launch period. Yunjin, or cloud brocade, is a unique silk craft indigenous to Nanjing, Jiangsu province. It is famous for its stunning patterns and delicate feel. In 2009, Nanjing brocade was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The collection, inspired by Nanjing yunjin brocade, blends ancient craftsmanship with modern outdoor aesthetics. Positioned as both a luxury fashion and a performance outerwear line, it reflects Guvet's strategy of marrying "fashion aesthetics" with "outdoor practicality", said the company.

The brand's retail performance echoed its online success. On Oct 18, several Guvet offline stores achieved record-breaking single-day sales. Guvet has also expanded its brick-and-mortar network from just four stores last year to 13 this year, with additional openings planned for November.

This omnichannel strategy — "online hits driving traffic, offline experiences driving conversion" — has become a new growth engine for Guvet. The brand aims to sustain momentum through a cycle of viral product launches, high-touch offline experiences and strong repeat purchases.

The surge in Guvet's popularity aligns with a broader market shift in China's apparel industry. As outdoor clothing increasingly transcends specialized sports scenarios, the "pan-outdoor" trend, where functional outdoor wear becomes part of everyday fashion, is reshaping market structures and growth models.

According to the latest report on China's outdoor apparel industry, the market is projected to exceed 140 billion yuan ($19.7 billion) by the end of 2025, with pan-outdoor categories contributing over 60 percent of incremental growth. Products that merge functionality with fashion have become the central driver of this expansion.

The new generation of consumers, drawn to light outdoor activities such as short hikes and camping, is fueling demand for fashion-forward, multi-scenario downwear.

Guvet's black gold yunjin series directly addresses this need, particularly for women consumers, said the company. By integrating Chinese heritage craftsmanship and modern design, it is designed to combine premium materials, cultural identity and international-quality performance.

Meanwhile, industry leader Bosideng Group, the domestic leading downwear brand, is making a decisive move upmarket. The company has appointed British designer Kim Jones as creative director of its new Areal premium urban line, signaling a strong ambition to elevate its global fashion status.

Jones, formerly men's design director at Dior and Louis Vuitton, is widely recognized for blending high fashion with utility — an approach that aligns with Bosideng's evolving brand vision of "professional downwear + high-quality design".

Launched globally this month, the Areal series features over 20 designs across menswear, women's wear, and accessories. Prices range from 2,399 to 3,999 yuan, emphasizing 800 more fill power, 90 percent goose down and couture-level tailoring. The campaign highlights Jones' creative leadership, underscoring Bosideng's ambition to position itself among luxury-grade downwear brands.

Industry observers said Bosideng's partnership with Jones reflects its attempt to capture the high-end consumer segment amid shifting market dynamics — a rare opportunity for a domestic label to gain international prestige.

Bosideng's financial performance provides a strong foundation for this strategic shift. In fiscal year 2024/25, the company reported record revenue of 25.9 billion yuan, marking its eighth consecutive year of growth, with net profit up 14.3 percent year-on-year to 3.51 billion yuan.

However, analysts caution that Bosideng faces challenges in aligning consumer perception with its high-end positioning. Between fiscal year 2018 and 2024, sales and distribution expenses surged from 2.45 billion to 8.06 billion yuan, while revenue grew only 1.6-fold — a slower pace than marketing cost growth.

Bosideng now navigates a multidimensional competitive landscape, competing not only with Moncler and Canada Goose, but also with cross-sector players like Lululemon and Arc'teryx, which are expanding into lightweight down and lifestyle wear.

Canadian activewear brand Lululemon is also eyeing the winter-wear market. In addition to its Wunder Puff series, the company's upgraded Featherweight down series, launching in November, features 900 fill power goose down for both men and women, promising "cloud-like warmth" and portability.

The brand is debuting the Always Down series for men, available in Glyde glossy and matte canvas fabrics designed to adapt to changing weather conditions. The move reflects Lululemon's intent to position itself not only as an activewear brand, but also as a cold-weather lifestyle label, further intensifying competition in China's premium downwear segment.

Tina Cheng, a research analyst at Mintel China, a marketing research institute, said nearly half of Chinese consumers choose down jackets for travel — second only to outdoor jackets or windbreakers.

In daily commuting and social activities, down jackets consistently rank among the top three preferred outerwear categories, reflecting their evolution from winter essentials to all-purpose lifestyle fashion, said Cheng.

"Today's consumers expect more than warmth," said Cheng. "They look for multi-functional garments that combine water resistance, stain repellence, lightweight design and fashionable silhouettes — features that make downwear suitable across diverse social and climatic settings."

China's sportswear and outdoor apparel market reached 542.5 billion yuan in 2024, a 10 percent year-on-year increase, driven by the integration of outdoor and everyday fashion, according to Mintel.

Downwear, as a key subcategory, continues to benefit from this convergence trend, creating new growth opportunities for both established and emerging brands, said Cheng.

Local players are increasingly leveraging material innovation and premiumization to elevate their brand value. Guvet, for instance, has introduced goose down and cashmere hybrids priced between 3,000 and 5,000 yuan, strengthening its luxury image, according to Mintel.

Meanwhile, Uniqlo continues to reinforce trust in its downwear through technical storytelling — highlighting features such as Pufftech filling technology and laboratory-tested insulation performance to appeal to value-conscious yet quality-seeking consumers.

wangzhuoqiong@chinadaily.com.cn