Tea breaks with tradition

But not everyone is on board with the idea of tampering with cha chaan tengs' traditional features. Daniella Wu, a 20-something born and raised in Hong Kong, prefers the old-school joints. "I'm a sucker for nostalgia, and particularly when dining with family, we love to hit up a no-frills, old-but-gold, traditional establishment for the authentic vibes," she says. Rachel Edjan, another local in her 20s, agrees: "There is something about the rigidness and below-average customer service that always makes me feel at home."

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